SWG stands for Salt Water Generator.
I just read this in another thread. I've never heard of this before, but I can understand why it sould make sense. Should I be doing this to get the green out of my pool ASAP? Can someone please explain EXACTLY where the panty hose go?
Also, what's SWG?
I'll try & post some test results, but I don't trust them at all. Stupid dip strips. I've read here that the pool store guys do the same test, so I don't really trust their results either.
16x32 IG sand filter switching to BBB
SWG stands for Salt Water Generator.
I don't know if panty hose will work, tights might work better as the mesh is tighter ( you would also need a good elastic).
A "skimmer sock" looks like panty-hose but the mesh is much tighter. You put it inside your skimmer's basket with the eleastic part wraped over the lip of the basket.
works awesome for pollen, bugs and some types of algae.
you could also buy a pool devil as well to do additonal skimming...
same idea, it's a large sock that that collects debris & attaches to your return outlet
Get yourself a decent test kit like a Taylor K-2006 from the pool store, or an HTH kit from Walmart for starters.
Pat
20,000 Gallon IG Diamond Brite pool, 1.5 HP Sta-Rite pump, Hayward Microclear DE3600 filter, Favco solar panels, Poolpilot DIG-220 with SC-48 cell.
+ SWCG OPERATION thread here: http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthread.php?t=1226
+ SWCG Running Costs post here: http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthread.php?t=316
+ Effective Stabilizer addition post here: http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthread.php?p=6645
I'm tryingUnfortunately, I've haven't found one yet. I'll keep looking. I can easily see the importance. I think I'd be better off getting one from here though. At least then I'll be able to trust the results. I'm doing the dilution method now, but it's telling me my PH & alkalinity are low. I doubt that's right. I think I'm gonna just keep shocking the crap out of it until it clears, then fiddle with the rest.
16x32 IG sand filter switching to BBB
If your ph is below 7.0 you must raise it pronto. Anything under 7 is acidic and can damage your pool and equipment. I highly recommend that you order the test kit from here - it is the best! Then you can take control of your own pool.
Northeast PA
16'x32' kidney 16K gal IG fiberglass pool; Bleach; Hayward 200lb sand filter; Hayward pump; 24hrs; Pf200; well; summer: none; winter: mesh; ; PF:7.5
Just to make sure...the only test that you can dilute is the OTO chlorine test. don't dilute the pH and alk tests.Originally Posted by nanniesrock
Retired pool store and commercial pool maintenance guy.
OK, newest results :
PH 7.6
alk 120
CYA 30
hardness 150
clorine totals were harder, just state >5. Got another test kit. Will try & measure chlorine myself.
16x32 IG sand filter switching to BBB
Your other levels are fine - just work on the chlorine levels. You should have 3 parts distilled water/1 part pool water and multiply by 4 JUST FOR chlorine. You want to register between 4.5 & 5ppm on the color chart to be in the right amount. (see my reply on your "cloudy" post).
Completed 8/21/06
14,000 gallon 3'-6' concrete pool with Diamond Brite
Spa with spillway
250K BTU gas heater (for spa)
SWCG - Aqua Rite
Hayward Super II Pump - Cartridge filter
See pictures here http://www.philsimmons.com/family/ga...mages&keyword=
Originally Posted by PatL34
So true...I cannot stress enough how bad the sticks are and how valuable a good test kit is. I got the Taylor kit listed and it is so much better then the Walmart ones or even the ones my local pool store had. This forum has made life very easy. I am now down to only adding bleach and have had nothing but perfect measurments for the past month plus.
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