Want To Switch To BBB; Shock Question

[aylad]

If your CC is high, you need to raise the chlorine up to shock level until the CC goes to zero, then let it drift back down.

You shouldn't need an algaecide if you properly chlorinate your pool, and a lot of them cause foaming problems, as well as add copper to your water that causes staining and green hair, so it's best not to add any of it if you don't need it.....a lot of our forum members only add it when closing...I never add it at all. Bleach is the only algaecide you really need. If you do add algaecide, we recommend polyquat because it doesn't cause the problems I mentioned above.


Janet

[Snowymoon]

Thank you Janet. I think I am on the right track.

[Snowymoon]

I don't think my CC reading is accurate. The only way I have to test it is with AquaChem test strips, and when I shocked the pool, the CC went way up along with the FC. (???) I need a better test kit, but is it wise to buy one now, or just wait until spring?

I shocked to 20 ppm with ultra bleach last night, and the level is still holding well this morning. Pool looks pretty darn good and is clearing up.

[aylad]

It's never too early to get a good test kit, and it's vital if you want to keep a clean, clear pool!

Janet

[Snowymoon]

Will the reagents and other kit stuff last through the year and be usable next year?

I posted pictures of the water today here. Looks really good! This site is the best.

[Snowymoon]

Wow. The TC level took about a day and a half to come down to around 10 to 12 from 20. Level of 10 is what I needed to be able to swim again at my CYA level. I guess that means my pool did not have much to shock out. Is this the reason y'all suggest not to shock unless it absolutely needs it?

I wonder if I could figure CC by using the TC reading versus free chlorine reading via the strips until they are gone? Is CC figured TC minus FC?

[aylad]

You can figure the CC by subtracting FC from TC--the question is, are your strips accurate? Most aren't....

Janet