TA Issues; First-Year Pool Owner

[mas985]

I use muriatic acid to keep my high PH and TA in check. You can also try to point your returns straight up and see if that helps get the PH up.

Also, noticed that your CCs were as high as the FC. If true, you need to shock your pool and get the CC down close to zero. This is probably the reason your water is cloudy. Go by Ben's table and bleachcalc for amounts. You might want to get a better test kit (DPD or FAS-DPD type) to double check your numbers.

[Snowymoon]

I would like to use up my bags of shock. They are 1 pound each. How much should I use to shock the pool up to 20 ppm? A full bag? Once they are used up, I will be switching to bleach. I posted more about that in the chlorination forum.

Also, I can't point my return up. On the Intex pool, the return has a cap on it, and it is low into the water.

[JohnT]

I would like to use up my bags of shock. They are 1 pound each. How much should I use to shock the pool up to 20 ppm? A full bag? Once they are used up, I will be switching to bleach. I posted more about that in the chlorination forum.

Also, I can't point my return up. On the Intex pool, the return has a cap on it, and it is low into the water.

I'd save the shock for next year. Your CYA is already on the high side. Next year when you fill the pool you'll need shock and CYA.

[Rangeball]

Lowering the PH to 7 and aerating is the only way to get alk down. I brought mine down from the high 200s to 110.

I've found that splashing about is by far the best aerator. Works the quickest. If you have kids, put them to work

On the alk, drop ph to 7, test alk, if still need to drop aerate until PH rises, drop back to 7, repeat as often as necessary.

If you bags of shock are dichlor, they'll add more cya. If they are calcium hypochlorite, they'll add more calcium hardness and can lead to cloudy/hazy water. If they are lithium hypochlorite, you paid to much but go ahead and use them If they are non-chlorine, sell them to a "friend"

[Snowymoon]

I think I am on the right track, TA wise.

As far as the BBB goes, it looks like I am better off just to switch over now due to my CYA being 70 ppm. Wow, I have been seriously pool stored. If I switch now, I will have spent $100 or so for nuttin. Live and learn, eh? ...

[Snowymoon]

My daughter and I aerated lots today. The pH is still holding at 7. However, the pH is not rising, and the TA is holding steady. Is it normal for it to take a few days for the pH to raise back up?

[PoolDoc]

Hi Snowymoon;

I would worry more about whether your pool is swimmable, and less about whether your alkalinity and calcium are "OK". The consequences of high ALK and CAL, on a small Intex pool aren't worth worrying about! You're going to drain this fall, and you can start over next year.

It probably is worthwhile to keep your pH at 7.0, but to protect your pool, don't go lower. Low pH can damage vinyl -- and if you go below 7.0, it will be hard to be sure you're not really at 6.0 or 5.5, which is damaging.


Meanwhile, you've got relatively high CYA *and* you have some chemicals to use up. I'm not sure what you can do with the algaecide. It's not really very good for much -- you could dilute it to about 1% and use it to clean and sanitize garbage cans and the like.

The Smart Sticks, you can use. Just go ahead, let the CYA rise, and keep the chlorine high to compensate. Check out my "Best Guess Chart". If you need to, you can get my PS100r 'stand-alone' chlorine test, so you can test higher levels of chlorine. Taylor also has some stand-alone FAS-DPD tests, but they are a lot more expensive.

I don't know about the vinyl shock -- I'm not sure what's in it. If it's dichlor*, I'd recommend saving it for next year. You can use it to chlorinate and add CYA. Dichlor is the easiest way to add CYA to the Intex type pools, since they have no skimmer you can dump CYA into.

Hope this helps.

Ben
"PoolDoc"

*Chemical names like "sodium dichloroisocyanurate" or "sodium dichloro-isocyanuric acid" => dichlor