Hayward Light questions

[KirstenHW]

1. My original bulb for my fixture is an r-40 120 volt 500 watt. I ordered a new one and they sent me an r-40 500 watt, 130 volt. Can I still use it with my light?

2. We misplaced the top screw of the fixture (an SP-543-L). Do we really need it?

3. Lens gasket: Which side faces lens, which faces bulb?

[thepoolman1]

A 130 volt bulb will work just fine. It is a heavy-duty bulb that should last longer than the lower voltage one. It will be slightly less bright, but you probably won't notice it.

The screw at the top of the fixture is what keeps it in place in the niche. You MUST have it in place or the light will float out of place when the pool is in use. Not a good thing. It is a "pilot screw" that should be available at a pool supply. If you can't get one there, get a STAINLESS STEEL screw of the same thread pitch and use it.

If the gasket is the same on both sides, it doesn't matter which side is out. If it has a small "bead" on one side, that goes against the metal housing. Sometimes there is an arrow and directions on the edge of a gasket telling you how to install it.

[KirstenHW]

Thanks so much, Poolman! I really appreciate it. I will get a pilot screw and new gasket today. And yes, the gasket does have a slight bead on one side - although no arrow.

I found bulb pricing that ran as much as $50 for this bulb to $12.95 - what I paid through Leslie's/ THe original bulb was a GE that side pool light on it. This one is by a company called Feit and it says nothing on it about pools - any need for concern on either point ("you get what you pay for" is rattling around in my head).

Also, the first bulb they sent made a tinking sound when shaken gently. I assumed that this meant the element is broken - am I right? The second bulb they sent seems not to have that sound.

Without the screw in hand for the top, how do I determine the size/pitch for a ss replacement? Any time "Pool" or "Swimming" is added to the description of things, it increases the pricein multiples. Like boats but not quite as bad . . .

Last, we had our liner replaced - they said they didn't replace the ring. What does that mean for the longevity of the fixture/niche?

[KirstenHW]

Well, it's been a while, but I finally got the new gasket and new bulb into the fixture last fall - the same weekend we closed the pool. So instead of putting it in the niche, I kept it wrapped up for the winter under the diving board (SOP since 1981 when the pool was built).

Over the winter we misplaced the locking screw for the top of the assembly. Finally found it about 2 weeks ago. I got in the pool, wound the cord around the housing and popped it into position. No light.

Since then I have been waiting for an electrician (at this point any electrician) to return my calls and come see what's what. I am hopeful all it is is the switch (its on the same fuse as the pump).

Today while floating around in the deep end with my goggles on, I noticed unhappily that the INSIDE of the light fixture (a Hayward Starlite SP-543L 120 volt/500 watt) is half full of water.

I pulled it out and popped it back onto the deck.

When I installed it I specifically watched to make sure no air bubbles were there. I now have 2 issues - a light that wouldn't turn on before ther was water inside it and now how water got in in the first place.

I've also been kicking around the idea of switching to an LED type replacement bulb or new fixtre. Hayward tells me my current niche, a copper SP-05057, is not compatible with ANY of their current fixtures, LED or no. They say I have to pull the whole thing out and start over.

Anyone have any advice (on any of the items mentioned)? Thx . . .

[KirstenHW]

Anyone have any comments on this for me? Thx -