New Pump Tripping Breaker In House

[Xndman]

Hello All,
This is probably a stupid question, but I'll go ahead. I moved into a new house this year with a '27 above ground pool. The pool is about 7 years old with a proline motor. The motor is connected to an extension cord that runs underground from a GFI outside outlet to the pump. The motor worked fine for 2 months until it crapped out recently and I replaced it with a new 1.5 HP proline. When I plugged the new motor in, it runs for about 15 seconds, then trips the breaker in the house. I did nothing to this new motor but plug it in, do I have to ground it first or something? If so, how and to what? Also, I know I need to get rid of the extension cord and have a hard-wired outlet by the pool, but for the next couple of days, my pool is now green and I'd like a temporary solution until I can get an eletrician to come out. Any suggestions???

Thanks!!

[Poconos]

The 1.5 HP pump sounds like extreme overkill for the water volume you have. You didn't state the rating of the old motor and I'm guessing the new one is just pulling too much current and tripping the breaker. Something to remember is that if you have an undersized extension cord you could be taking a large voltage drop and that could be part of the problem. One question, during the 15 seconds before the breaker trip, does the pump come up to speed and stay there until the trip? I'm asking because if it isn't coming up to speed it could be staying on the starting winding that pulls a great deal of current, thus tripping the breaker. Too much of a voltage drop can cause this problem. Grounding should be through the extension cord but shouldn't cause a trip. You already are aware you have to wire things right so we won't go into that issue.
Al

[Xndman]

Thanks for the reply. The pump does wind up to full speed and stay there until it trips. If the pump is pulling to much current, what can I do for an iterim solution? Also, I don't have to ground the pump because it's grounded through the extension cord? The extension cord is 3-prong. Thanks again, I really need to be able to run this pump over the next couple of days to clear my water up.

[jimmyzshack]

i would try a heavier duty extension cord. That is probably the problem. Is the breaker a 20 amp? the pump probably pulls 15 amps are so.

[Xndman]

The breaker has 15 written on it. Other breakers have 15 or 20 or 30. I'll temporarily try a heavier duty cord. Thanks for the help.

[matt4x4]

If the pump pulls close to 15 Amps, then you may want to replace the breaker with a 20 amp (after trying a heavy duty cord first). Although, it should only pull that at startup, tehn be down around 5 Amps.
Is the pool circuit isolated or is there a possibility that something else is on it thus pushing you over 15 Amps.
Have you checked your GFCI rating, it seems awfully strange that the 15A breaker goes before the 15A GFCI - almost points to a suspect weakened breaker.

[Poconos]

My 1 HP Hayward Superpump pulls around 7 amps at 240, running. If this is a 1.5 HP and wired for 120 then it's at or above the breaker rating. More questions....you didn't answer what the old pump rating was and is this a 120 or 240 volt configuration?
Al

[Xndman]

I'll check the old pump when I get home. How difficult is it to replace a breaker in the panel?

[Poconos]

Real easy. When and if you decide to do it, make sure you wear eye protection if not full face protection. You're messing in a panel where a simple slip of a screwdriver or something can blow off a bunch of molten metal. Don't mean to scare you but always err on the side of caution. As many times as I've been inside power panels, I always take precautions just in case something does go wrong.
Al

[mshumack]

If you can, shut the main power off to the breaker panel when you work on it. If you just turn the breaker off (that your changing) it is still safe to remove the wire and replace breaker but you would be better off killing power to the whole panel as the adjacent (breakers) wires will be energized. Make sure you buy the same brand (i.e. ITE Siemens, Cutler Hammer, GE, Square D, etc) since the panels are designed for specifc brand breakers (its also required by code not to mix brands).