Polaris booster pump rebuild

[lumos]

My Polaris booster pump had been on the failing edge for about 1 year and finally seized up. Apparently a seal began to leak and simply rusted/corroded the bearings, motor, and electronics. I was never really impressed with this pump anyway and it was always noisy. I simply purchased a Hayward 5060 booster off e-bay (new in box) and replaced the pump. It took me about an hour, very easy. I could do it in 20 minutes, now. The Hayward is still noisy but it sounds a lot better than the Polaris pump did and actually sounds normal.

For about $170.00, I recommend replacing the pump.

[biker2]

For the record I hate my Polaris 380 system. The motor noise is a little better now that I have started running it full time regardless of the bearings. I will see if it gets any better over time. The motor is supposed to be sealed, if water gets in the bearings then Polaris makes a pretty cheap unit. I have seen the Hayward for $165, looks just like the Polaris.

Out of all my pool equipment the Polaris has been my only headache. The 380 is always breaking for some reason. the float failed once and the reverse unit has cracked twice in two years. The second time I gave up replacing it and used polyurethane glue on the outside (yes it worked). The reverse housing is so thin it seems it was made to crack. No I do not abuse the unit. If I could afford to replace it I would scrap this one ASAP.

It does clean the pool when its running a small consolation, lol.

GB

[TexasPoolGuy]

I have repaired my main circulation pump and polaris pump 3 times over the years. They are both circa 1985 units and virtually identical. The carbon-steel water seal leaks and damages the bearings by diluting the grease. The pumps can be disassembled and both the forward (near pump) bearing and rear bearing replaced. Remove motor end cap to restrain the pump shaft and allow impellor to be unthreaded from the pump shaft.

The tricky part is getting the three, long, skinny (3/16" I think) through-body bolts to come loose w/o twisting off. I now have only two bolts in my main pump motor, but that is adequate. If they twist off, you may be able to remove them once the assembly is apart by long soak heating the aluminum body w/ propane torch and turning the stub (hopefully enough) w/ vise grips to remove the bolt.

On reassembly I use generous anti-sieze on the long bolts to allow easy future removal. It worked on my last main pump repair, and 2 long bolts are still intact.

I found bearing replacement at local autoparts dealer. I think front and rear bearings are identical. They may be available from pool parts outlet also.

good luck

[biker2]

You don't happen to know what size bearings?

GB

[TexasPoolGuy]

I found what I believe is the removed bearing (not absolutely sure). It was 40mm OD x 18mmm ID. I believe it must be a metric bearing since both OD and ID were exactly mm increments.

Removing the bearing from the shaft required cleaning the rusted shaft, polishing w/ fine sandpaper, and pulling w/ a 3-leg bearing puller. I had to seek help as I did not have this tool myself.

good luck

[TexasPoolGuy]

I wrote the wrong dimension for some reason. It was 17mm ID, not 18mm.

regards

[biker2]

I did some more checking after your reply and found the motor to be an
AO Smith B625 made for Polaris.

I found a site with replacement bearings at about $10 each, I am still undecided should I rebuild or replace the unit. A new motor is about $130, a new Hayward booster pump is $165 complete ( I don't know how good their Booster motors are).

GB