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Thread: Polaris booster pump rebuild

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
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    11

    Default Polaris booster pump rebuild

    I just rebuilt My PB4 Polaris booster pump due to a failure caused by a disconnected hose. However the pump is now very loud, granted it was never a quiet pump but now I can hear it 200 feet away. I contacted Polaris and they double checked the assembly with me and they concluded it is a motor problem. Now I do know about motors from working with woodworking equipment for many years and honestly it does not sound like the motor. I replaced everything except the motor and housings.

    Has anyone experienced this problem and if so how did you fix it?

    If you believe it is the bearings do you have replacement bearing sizes so I can rebuild the motor.

    If you think my efforts are fruitless due to the pump being a piece if junk, what do you recommend thats quiet.

    GB

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
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    1

    Default Re: Polaris booster pump rebuild

    My Polaris booster pump had been on the failing edge for about 1 year and finally seized up. Apparently a seal began to leak and simply rusted/corroded the bearings, motor, and electronics. I was never really impressed with this pump anyway and it was always noisy. I simply purchased a Hayward 5060 booster off e-bay (new in box) and replaced the pump. It took me about an hour, very easy. I could do it in 20 minutes, now. The Hayward is still noisy but it sounds a lot better than the Polaris pump did and actually sounds normal.

    For about $170.00, I recommend replacing the pump.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
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    11

    Default Re: Polaris booster pump rebuild

    For the record I hate my Polaris 380 system. The motor noise is a little better now that I have started running it full time regardless of the bearings. I will see if it gets any better over time. The motor is supposed to be sealed, if water gets in the bearings then Polaris makes a pretty cheap unit. I have seen the Hayward for $165, looks just like the Polaris.

    Out of all my pool equipment the Polaris has been my only headache. The 380 is always breaking for some reason. the float failed once and the reverse unit has cracked twice in two years. The second time I gave up replacing it and used polyurethane glue on the outside (yes it worked). The reverse housing is so thin it seems it was made to crack. No I do not abuse the unit. If I could afford to replace it I would scrap this one ASAP.

    It does clean the pool when its running a small consolation, lol.

    GB

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 1969
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    Default Re: Polaris booster pump rebuild

    I have repaired my main circulation pump and polaris pump 3 times over the years. They are both circa 1985 units and virtually identical. The carbon-steel water seal leaks and damages the bearings by diluting the grease. The pumps can be disassembled and both the forward (near pump) bearing and rear bearing replaced. Remove motor end cap to restrain the pump shaft and allow impellor to be unthreaded from the pump shaft.

    The tricky part is getting the three, long, skinny (3/16" I think) through-body bolts to come loose w/o twisting off. I now have only two bolts in my main pump motor, but that is adequate. If they twist off, you may be able to remove them once the assembly is apart by long soak heating the aluminum body w/ propane torch and turning the stub (hopefully enough) w/ vise grips to remove the bolt.

    On reassembly I use generous anti-sieze on the long bolts to allow easy future removal. It worked on my last main pump repair, and 2 long bolts are still intact.

    I found bearing replacement at local autoparts dealer. I think front and rear bearings are identical. They may be available from pool parts outlet also.

    good luck

  5. #5
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    Jul 2006
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    11

    Default Re: Polaris booster pump rebuild

    You don't happen to know what size bearings?

    GB

  6. #6
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    Dec 1969
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    Default Re: Polaris booster pump rebuild

    I found what I believe is the removed bearing (not absolutely sure). It was 40mm OD x 18mmm ID. I believe it must be a metric bearing since both OD and ID were exactly mm increments.

    Removing the bearing from the shaft required cleaning the rusted shaft, polishing w/ fine sandpaper, and pulling w/ a 3-leg bearing puller. I had to seek help as I did not have this tool myself.

    good luck

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