We Finally Dug Our Ground (Pics)

[AGP18by33]

Hi everyone,
Seems like forever since my last post. We finally have our yard dug.
We will be installing an 18 x 33 x 52" Oval AGP. (Pittsburgh, PA)
Here are some pictures:

"BEFORE"
Attachment 437

"DURING"
Attachment 438

"AFTER RAKING"
Attachment 440

We still have to "tweak" the levelness some as you can see by the last picture.
Now for some questions:
1. We were told that we can use 2" x 8" x 16" under our uprights by the pool manufacturer. Thats what we got and I want to be sure that those will work.

2. We will be installing a plastic barrier 12" up the wall and 12" on the floor to protect the sand from washout, as suggested by the book. Question is what mil of thickness is best?

3. There are several ruts from the bobcat that was used to level the ground which a wonderful neighbor did for us. What are your suggestions for getting a nice smooth surface to start building on? I raked the entire area to get it somewhat flat and I know the leveling process is the hardest part. Should we just get an extra ton of the Masons Sand for a base for the entire area and then level that, then start building the pool? Will the sand sink into the ruts eventually? He has a power compactor that we can use and also a 20 foot screed or screet. He also used his laser transit.

4. Our metal strap assemblies for under the pool were folded in the box. They go together as one long, then short, short, short, then a long one for one complete strap. A total of 5 pieces to make one strap. We assembled as much as we could but the longer ones that were folded still have a crease in them dispite setting 4 patio block on them overnight (the ones we purchased for the uprights and buttresses). How can we get them totally flat without the crease?

5. We are debating on the filling part. Our fire dept. don't do that anymore, so we were told to try other communities. How much can we expect to pay in our water bill (sewage will be turn off for the fill) if we fill from the hose? How much to get it truck in approx.? I can't seem to find out how many gallons we will need.

We are missing some of our parts/screws/bolts, so we will be calling the company to have them shipped. I don't think they will give us a hard time with this.

Sorry this is long with alot of questions. We are not going to rush this process as we are very attentive to the small details. We may not get to swim this year but thats ok. We waited this long to build the darn thing.

I will be posting the pictures of the progress.

Thanks for everyones help in advance. You have all been wonderful with my previous questions.
Rhonda

[sevver]

15743 is what the bleach calc said for your gallons.

I also would not put the blocks on sand, they need to go on the dirt. I think that using a plastic barrier is not recommended as it will trap water in case of a leak. If your pool will be a bit buried all the way around it then there is no where for the sand to wash out to.

[hrsdennis]

Hi, looks like you are off to a good start.

The blocks are fine. The plastic is good idea. Get the cheapest available as this is just a little extra protection, not a big thing. Do not use sand for leveling. Use your existing dirt (compacted) or some type of fill from your local landscaping supply yard. The best advice I can give regarding sand is to study these photos closely. It makes all the difference in the world.

http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthread.php?t=4411

If you take one of the blocks you got for the uprights, lay the strap across it, then gently tap it with a hammer you can make them perfectly flat again.

The pool filling part is a local issue. Around here everyone just uses the garden hose hooked to their outdoor water tap.

I would love to see more photos and more questions are no problem. Best of luck, Dennis

[SADSUE]

From a quick google search on gallons:

Another Brand - Misty Pines 18´ x 33´ Oval Pool Only, (15,087 Gallons)

or follow this link -

http://www.backyardcitypools.com/swi...-Calculate.htm

[matt4x4]

You would need 4 4000 gal trucks, up here in Canada they would set you back about 140 per truckload - so close to 600.00.
For plastic barrier, you can go relatively thin, i used the typical 6mil house vapor barrier.
I like using screenings or crusher run for the base plates to sit on - packs very solid with a plate compactor and some water, but as Dennis said, your existing top soil will work as well.
Your metal straps won't straighten by setting weight on them, but try hammering the crease flat on your garage floor or something similar,(hammer from both sides alternating) that's one way to get creases out of flat metal without the proper equipment to do so.

[AGP18by33]

Thank you all for the awesome replies. I just knew I could count on getting answers here.
I will follow your advice on the block issue. That helps to know that we can just set them on or in the dirt. We will probably dig them in then transit all of them.
We will also do the hammering to get those creases out. I never thought to do that.
Also, I called the water billing office and they will charge us $7.00 per 1000 gallons. Pretty cheap if you ask me.

Thanks alot everyone. I will definately follow everyones advice and will be posting more pictures.

Rhon

[hoffmans]

Don't forget to keep the pictures coming!

[SherrySt]

Wow! Your municipality will actually separate the water and sewage bills? We are in Beaver County (Chippewa) and you are charged a flat rate per gallon no matter what.