As far as a more accurate way of testing CYA, the $15 Aquachem test kit from walmart will test more accurately then strips...as will the Taylor K-2006 and K-2005 kits. You seem to have the basic Taylor kit that only tests FC, TC, Acid/Base demand (a useless test....it makes assumptions about the ALK and if not in normal range the demand test results are not accurate), and possibly ALK. You really need a more complete kit. The Taylor K-2006 with the FAS-DPD chlorine test is good...A better 'bang for your buck is the PoolSolutions ps234s available on the sister website to this forum.
Evan (waterbear),

The acid and base demand tests actually do not make any assumptions about the alkalinity which is why such tests are in fact reasonable. The tests simply add real acid or base to your existing pH measurement sample and you note the color change. The tables simply convert the number of drops into the amount of acid or base needed in scaled-up pool volumes.

If your alkalinity is very high, then adding the drops will only make the color change a little bit because the pH won't move much. If the alkalinity is very low, then the drops will make the color move a lot. The tables have nothing to do with alkalinity and are simply volume conversion tables from your drops into the amount needed for pool volumes (plus a conversion to the type of acid or base you use if that is different than what is in the drops).

I have a spreadsheet that does the calculations for me so I don't use nor need the acid/base demand test for figuring out how much acid/base to add. However, I do use the drops to make the color move when I'm in that hard to discern range of pH between 7.4 and 7.6. By adding a drop one way and then a drop or two the other way, I can verify that I am indeed straddled between two of the colors.

Richard