Can anyone Help????? any insight is great!!!

[waste]

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[waste]

07-18-2006, 07:34 PM
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Default Re: many issues....can u help,please?
(* I had to delete your mesage to fit my response into the 5000 character limit- I hope you still have a copy)- Waste
Ryan, welcome to the forum, sorry I missed your posts. Sounds like you've got quite a project on your hands I'll help in any way I can. (I'm going to answer the questions in order 1 - 13)
1) The compactor will give you a better surface to work off of, for best results, moisten the sand (ie garden hose on 'mist') before and after running the compactor, it'll be better to do this just before dropping the liner.
2) Vermiculite is what I've always used (3 of 4 pool co I've worked for), if you are good with a trowel and have a few (3 or so) people to help you, it's a much more stable floor (sand seems to want to all wash down to the deep end- as I'm sure you noticed) and won't channel like sand does - the washouts and shifting can put extra strain on the liner and shorten it's life expectancy. Something we've done a few times is to put 1.5 - 2" of vermiculite in the shallow end and first ~4' of the slope (the places that people will be walking) and leave the rest of the slope and deep end sand - this saves money on vermiculite and cement, but lets the area people walk in stay flat and secure.
3) Sanding them was the best thing you could have done for the walls and YES spray paint or brush the rust spots with Rustolium to inhibit further degredation
4) Wall foam will help protect the liner from any rough spots, 1/8" thickness should be enough - be sure to cut out around any fittings (returns and skimmer) or you'll have a lot of trouble puting on the faceplates.
5) I only use liner lock in the corners and where the liner seems not to want to stay in the track - I'd imagine that 2' would be enough, cut it into 1" peices and put 3 - 4 in each corner and wherever else the liner tries to pop out (save the rest for future tucks)
6) As long as you haven't ordered the liner, make whatever changes you'd like, now is the time to customize the bottom to be however you want it, about 1/2 of the 'rehabs' we do to pools end up raising the deep end from 8 to ~5'. You'll have to decide how you'll want to use the pool or if diving is something you must be able to do.
7) To pressure test a line, you need to be able to completely close off both ends, have a means of applying air or water to the line and stopping the rise at will while maintaining the line's integrity and a gauge to see if the pressure is dropping. Poconos has posted the makings of his tester, and I'd be happy to tell you how to make one that can be hooked up to your garden hose, or you can devise your own.
8) The 2 pumps should be on separate GFIs, you might want to have a 120v outlet near the system for any electrical needs you encounter (like a blower for winterizing). The power for the lights can go anywhere, some folks like to be able to turn on their lights from their porch, others just walk over to the filter pad to turn them on, etc.
9) If it's convienient, a spigot at the pad has some use, but if the pad is within hose length of the house, it's not necessary (buying another length of hose will surely be cheeper than running a line out there and them having to winterize it every Fall)
10) As long as the sewer co doesn't mind algae and chlorinated water in the sewer, it'd be the best option, put a union on the pipe so you can occasionally check for leaks out of the backwash easily.
11) (I'll assume you mean filter pump) Having a 'twist-lock' power supply cord will enable you to take the pump inside for the winter, which will probably prolong it's life. It will also make any pump repairs a little easier (provided you have unions on the intake and output of the pump)
12) For me, it's as easy as walking into the store in the morning ang grbbing one off the shelf - Seriously, is it the sand drain plug, which goes into the bottom of the filter body - or the water drain plug that screws into the sand drain plug? The one for the body might be a little harder to find if only because they made 2 different ones for that filter if it's one of them you need I can get you the part numbers (I think that the last 2 didgets of the respective plugs are 85 and 96 ( the first 5 or 6 numbers are the same), if it's the water plug Hayward SP 1600 V (W maybe?) will work or SP 1700 FG - there's also the identical plug for CL200, Any fairly well stocked pool store should have what you need.
13) If you are going to use the booster pump, you'll want a dedicated line - however, as I recall from 10+ yrs ago, the 360 doesn't need the booster pump (which is why they came up with the 360, to retrofit into an existing pool without the dedicated line) You may be able to find out at Polaris' website (I'm assuming they have one)
I hope this answers a few of your ?s If I can be of further help, just let me know. Yrs truly - Ted
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Having done construction and service for 4 pool companies in 4 states starting in 1988, what I know about pools could fill a couple of books - what I don't know could fill libraries
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[waste]

Private Message: Re: many issues....can u help,please?

07-19-2006, 08:56 PM
waste waste is online now
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Default Re: many issues....can u help,please?
Quote:
Originally Posted by cableguy1
hey thanks a million, and to think nobody would help was at little frustrating. Did u get any of the pics?
I reposted the message I had sent you with a link to my photobucket album. I just am so greatfull that a forum like this is available to us non-pool savvvy people. With help like yours I now have hopes to become pretty informed I will surley keep you posted as to the sloooow progress and will be sure to let anybody who asks just how great you are!!!!
If i could ask 1 more question and that is with the vermiculite bottom for the shallow end, is that a dry mix or do i mix ahd trowel. I think i read it is 50/50 mix of portland cement and ????....
Again thanks and talk to ya soon

Vermiculite needs to be 'wet' when applied, by wet , I mean mixed with enough water to produce a small stream of water when you squeeze a handful. The ratio I've always used is 1 bag vermiculite (they can range from 16-20 lbs) to 1/2 bag portland cement (~42 lbs) - we just slice the bags in half. We add ~ 11 gal water to this to get the consistancy desired, the amount of water depends alot on the temp and humidity of the day and also on how quickly the material is being put down. If you need, I can tell you more specifically how to do it when you are ready.
I'd like to post both my pm replies to you on the forum, but won't if you don't want me too, please let me know (there may be other people here who have the same questions and someone else here may have a better answer than one of the ones I gave or might catch something I've missed - always a possibility when going with only one source ;( )
These last 2 posts are pms that Cableguy and I shared, he agreed that I could post them on the forum - Waste __________________
Having done construction and service for 4 pool companies in 4 states starting in 1988, what I know about pools could fill a couple of books - what I don't know could fill libraries
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[Poconos]

Here's the link, post #17.
Al

http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthread.php?t=261