Non-chlorine sanitizer and equipment

[markeast]

We have a new IG VL pool with an Ecosmarte system that uses an ionic copper process and oxidation. It's a liner pool and the walls already feel very slippery, and water isn't as clear as it was last week. The builder filled the pool on 6/30, but didn't come back until 7/5 to check the water. The Ph at that time was around 7.5 and he said we need it to be around 6.6, with hard water, and .7 copper level (ppm?). He turned on the copper ionizer, added calcium and muriatic acid.

Our Ph is right around 6.8 - 7.0, copper is around .5, and hardness is around 300-400 ppm.

The customer service guy at Ecosmarte wants me to add a non-metal algacide and get the Ph down. BUT, The Pentair (Heat pump) rep said we would ruin the HP if we ran the Ph below 7.2 and he said he preferred 7.5 with high alkalinity (140ish). He said they won't warranty the pool if we run it at the levels recommended by the builder. Only problem, then the Ecosmarte won't work.

I bought the Ecosmarte at the urging of the pool builder, even though I told him twice I didn't want it. I can switch to a salt-water system within 60 days, but I wonder if that will interact with all that copper in the water. I've also read on this board that operating a liner pool below Ph 7.0 may damage the liner.

Boy, this is not easy.

[JohnT]

The Ecosmarte doesn't provide for any sanitation of the water in the pool, only what is passing through the system at that instant. For a typically sized pool filtration system, any given bacterium will only pass through the system every 4 to 8 hours, and it is possible it could go the whole day without being exposed to the sanitizer.

Basically, if a kid pees in the pool (or worse) it will stay in the pool the entire time you are swimming. With a chlorine pool it would be quickly "attacked" by the chlorine. IT's a no-brainer: Go with the SWC.

[aylad]

No way I'd let my pH get below 7.0 in a vinyl pool, or deliberately put copper in my pool. I agree with John T--ditch the ionizer and go with the SWG.

Janet

[Bleach=Chlorine?]

Not even a question. Dump that thing and go with SWG. You mgiht want to do a partial drain and re-fill to prevent staining from all that copper.

[medvampire]

We had a lond thread about meneral systems a while back you might find a good read.

I cant really comment about the ECOsmarte system but I dont buy in to all the media anti chlorine hype. You might want to give this thread a good read and this thread.

IMHO drop the ECOsmarte and go SWC. Wish I had the $$$ for one.

Steve

[PoolDoc]

I bought the Ecosmarte at the urging of the pool builder, even though I told him twice I didn't want it. I can switch to a salt-water system within 60 days, but I wonder if that will interact with all that copper in the water. I've also read on this board that operating a liner pool below Ph 7.0 may damage the liner.

Boy, this is not easy.

It is easy -- once you get away from the bad advice.

I'd strongly suggest you switch to the SWG, but do NOT turn it on till you get the copper out.

• Do NOT lower your pH further.
• Do go get some polyquat, and use it regularly, till you get switched to chlorine.
• Do turn the copper system OFF, and request that the electrodes be removed ASAP.
• Do run your filter & pump 24/7, till the copper's gone.
• Do adjust your return eyeballs so that return water is not directed at any pool surface.
• Do get some Metal Magnet or other liquid stain / scale product, and begin using it at the MINIMUM dose recommended for your pool.
• Do get the bleach calculator, and add *small* 0.5 ppm doses of bleach each evening, till you've got things straightened out.
• Do read the HOWTO in the metal section, about removing metals from your water.
• Do NOT add *ANY* chemicals, other than bleach, stain / scale, polyquat or borax without checking here first.
• Do NOT use any non-chlorine shock, any 'boosters', any other algaecides, etc. ESPECIALLY do NOT use any mystery products with will "really help and solve all your problems"!

Remember that devices like SWG's, ozonators, ionizers, Nature2 units, and the like are marketed to builders as profit boosters, not as solutions to their customer's problems. Be skeptical, very skeptical.

Ben

[markeast]

Just to let you know, I'm following this routine with success while waiting on the pool builder to switch me to a salt water system. The ph is staying around 7.4, and the copper is around .4 (down from .7). The water hardness is around 150 ppm - should I add calcium chloride to make it higher?

[JohnT]

The water hardness is around 150 ppm - should I add calcium chloride to make it higher?

Your only hardness issue with a vinyl pool should be what your heater manufacturer recommends.