1st test results - CYA down to ZERO?

[waterbear]

Ben,
I remember you stating before the board crashed that CYA CAN biodegrade! After reading through the links I wonder if it might be a good idea to test for ammonia and/or nitrogen compounds in a newly opened pool with no CYA to see if this can predict the possible high chorine demand? (realize this is just something off the top of my head There are a few easy tests for ammonia but there are some interactions that can give inaccurate results. Not sure if testing for nitrite and nitrate would be useful but if there are any areas in the pool where denitrifing bacteria might live in a closed pool with no sanitizer it is possible that it might give us an indicator.) Might be an interesting bit of research that could possibly provide us with another testing weapon to determine just what is going on in the water.

I want to STRESS that this is just conjecture on my part (and I am no expert--just a guy with enough knowlege to be dangerous so I am not suggesting that anyone try this!) but I would love to hear your thoughts on this.
I am going to google the search terms you suggested this weekend when I can devote some time to it and see what I can learn. Thanks!

[PoolDoc]

You *could* test for ammonia and/or nitrate . . . but I don't see the point.

The solution is the same, regardless: if you add chlorine in the late PM, and it's gone by the early AM, then you need to add a lot more chlorine that same PM, regardless of whether the 'goo' as CYA leftovers, PHMB leftovers, or algae.

In other words, since the test isn't going to change* what you do, why bother?

Ben

*There is a bit of an exception. If it's ammonia or urea, keeping the pH high is best. But, if it's algae or Baquacil, low is probably better. However, the 'differential diagnosis' turns on the CYA level now, vs last fall. If it dropped a bunch, you should assume that the pH needs to be at the high end.

[bhelme]

Wasn't good at HS chem, never took it in college - my apologies in advance. Since my pool is just 1 year old, I've been told to keep my pH down.
But since my CYA was down to 0 and my pH was on the high end when I opened up the pool, my understanding is that what I should be doing at this point is to let my pH stay on the high end and keep adding bleach in the PM until I get things under control? I'm assuming I should also add CYA now as well.

Thanks for the input!

[aylad]

Don't worry about the discussion above between waterbear and Ben, they're making it sound a whole lot more complicated than it really is. Just keep it simple: Yes, you need to add some CYA, either in the skimmer or in a sock or stocking in front of your return, and remember not to retest or backwash for a week or so because it takes a long time to dissolve and show up. How much you need to add will depend on your SWG instructions. And yes, keep adding bleach until you get your chlorine under control. As far as pH goes, if you're between 7.0 and 8.0, you're basically okay--the general consensus is that the lower you are on that end of the scale, the more effective your chlorine will be.......but then again, my pool "likes" a high pH so I don't try to fight it.

Hope this helps!

Janet

[IceT1]

Question about CYA: Where does one get it and what are some product names? While waiting for a better test kit to arrive, my test strips indicate my cya is zero. Thks.

[Watermom]

You may be able to find CYA at Walmart, Lowe's or Home Depot. If not, you'll have to get it from a pool store. Sometimes it is called stabilizer or conditioner. If the ingredient label says cyanuric acid or isocyanuric acid, it is the right thing.

[bhelme]

First, where to find CYA: I got it at Lowes in MD, the Home Despots in the area didn't have much in the way of chemicals in stock yet. (I'll have to talk to my HD manager friend about that) approx. $10/3 lb.

Second: Tested tonight CYA up to 23. should I add some more to get in the 30-50 range? Other numbers FC/TC 2, CC 0, pH 7.8, Alk 150, Cal 350, Temp 81