Calcium Preciptate Cloudiness:How Long Will It Last?

[Branzer]

Thanks, Watermom,
I haven't added any CYA yet this year, but have those pucks floating around for whatever they are (or arent') worth.
Should I add the CYA (and how much?)(it seems to be less than 30) before I add tonight's dose of chlorine?
Glad to hear I don't have to worry about the ALK right now. One thing at a time sounds good to me.
I really appreciate the help!

[Watermom]

For now, I would just shock and maintain shock level for a few days before I worried about cya.

Then, after your water clears up you can adjust your cya. If it were my pool, I'd not use the pucks. I would just add a little cya. Since you aren't sure of the exact reading, you'll need to go slow. I would add enough to the skimmer while the pump is running (per label directions) to raise the cya by 10 ppm. Then, wait a week to let it dissolve completely before retesting it. That way you should be able to get a more accurate reading. Then, if it is still too low, you can add more later. (Also don't backwash for a week.) Other people prefer to just use the pucks to slowly let the cya rise. It is just a matter of preference. If you do decide to use the pucks, just monitor your cya level every few weeks.

[aylad]

In addition to Marie's and Watermom's advice (which is great, as always) you need to have your pump/filter running 24/7 until your water clears. Shock levels will kill whatever algae you might have in the water, but will not remove it from the water--your filter does that. Same thing with the Ca precipitation. If that's your problem, (and it sounds to me like the problem may be a combination), the filter is what will take it out once the chlorine kills.

Janet

[Branzer]

Thanks for the further advice and encouragement. We have had the filter running 24/7 and we are starting to see some improvement. I agree, I really think it is a combination of calcium and dead (or lingering live) algae. This afternoon my daughter said "Mom, why is the pool brush at the bottom of the pool?" I had no answer for that, but was thrilled that it could be SEEN at the bottom of the pool, even if "through a cloud". Couldn't see a thing a couple days ago.

Am continuing to test 3x a day; Cl is holding overnight and went down only slightly during the day today. We had a lot of rain yesterday and pH is 7.5 now.

My husband is no longer threatening to bring the John Deere home to smash it to pieces and we can (kind of) see something at the bottom, so we're making progress and all thanks to the Pool Forum!

Thanks so much!!!!

[gordyjamz]

I had the same problem opening this year. Lots of algea from the winter. had the cloudy water too. I read on another site about breakpoint chlorination, which is basically bringing the free chlorine level high enough to burn off whatever combined chlorine there is. This results in a 0.0 CC reading, leaving your entire CL reading as FC. I brought my FC to 25 ppm for 2 days, then let it gradually go down to 10 and held it there for a week, all the while running the filter 24/7. Once I reached the 0 cc reading my water cleared beautifully. I imagine if I had a cart or De filter, it may have cleared quicker, but nonetheless, it cleared. The cloudiness is the dead algea and Cl floating around. Another thing to keep in mind is to get the ph and alk balanced BEFORE trying this. PH tests are not to be trusted in very high CL readings. I made this mistake and have had the added job of bringing the high alk down, because I added baking soda thinking it was low, all the while getting a false test reading. Hope this helps.

[Branzer]

After 36 hrs. of maintaining Cl of 10 and 0 CC, I can see the fittings on the pool pole and (faintly) the pattern on the liner of the floor! I will be on this like glue today (test 4X, at least) and have high hopes!
Then we can deal with the high Alk etc.

QUESTION: I'm wondering if anyone can tell me what it means that my TH was blue at the outset (not turning red, then drop count to blue)....? Does this mean lots of calcium (that would make sense) or none?

[gordyjamz]

sounds like your making progress. I have an hth drop kit, and it says that the test is supposed to turn red to indicate the presence of calcium. I'm guessing yours is 0 since it stays blue. I've read here that with a vinyl liner, you don't really need to add cal to the pool. I'm sure one of the more knowledgeable folks here can verify this.

[brent.roberts]

Welcome to our forum,

Going back to your original post. Sorry about the health issues. Pools are a bit like having children. The "I'm yours, feed me" syndrome kicks in.

Once pool water warms up to 50 degrees or so in the spring, you need to start to do something to keep it sanitized ( also read as clear, not green ) Not much at first, but as it warms you need to be more active and stay that way until the fall when it drops below 50 again.

I have not read all the advice you've been given between you first post and this, but keep this in mind for the spring and fall.

Good luck.

[Branzer]

Thank you, Thank you everyone! Just wanted to let you know that we have crystal clear water!
After my last post I checked the CYA again and pegged it at about 37, so I pushed Cl to 15 and it cleared the rest of the way in about 18 hours. Yeah!!!!
A couple of hot, sunny days with a heavy rain one night brought CL down to 6, so I let them in yesterday! We're holding at FC 6 TC 6 CC 0, pH 7.4.

I am still wondering about my TH test...it is blue at the outset (kit says it should turn red if hardness is present, then drop count to red). I wondered about the health of the reagent, so I tested my well water and it reacted as the kit said it should. Any explanation here? I'm concerned because the next step is hooking up a new electric heater....

Thank you Pool Forum!