
Originally Posted by
topnotch
Carl - you are the king... your generosity with your knowledge and experience is greatly appreciated.....chris
I am grooving on the whole bleach concept...my yankee nature is so fond of efficiency.
I built this whole thing with recycled 6x6's set vertically in concrete and I left things a little low when I excavated (about 60") . I originally wanted to make it 4.5' deep but I came to realize that little kids in the pool will be working really hard to enjoy themselves at that depth so I am thinking of filling in the one end and making it 46" deep at one end and 54 or 56" at the other. Ideal for a kids vs adults volley ball game. Would family members agree this is a good plan...I have friends with fancy deep end pools and their kids hate that they cant really play or dive (in NJ) in the deep end.
My pool is very similar--40' long, one half is about 46" deep (the water)--though I say it's 4' deep for ease. The other half has a deep end hopper--a flat area about 5'4" deep with ramps on all four sides. The ramps go up to a safety ledge about 18" wide that's also 46" deep. Kids can play in the shallow section, but those that can swim are OK in the deeper, and I can stand in it.
If this is the case can you turn me onto a good, fast, cheap liner source.
I was thinking about my skimmer in the center of the long wall flanked by the two returns (because the lights wont shine in the windows).
Curiously, in this kind of pool, the end is preferred for the plumbing. I have the skimmer, the low drain and the return all on one end--the shallow end--that's the way it was constructed. The skimmer is about 3' from one corner, the return as 1' from the other corner, and the low drain is in the middle of that wall, about 6" or so off the bottom. It works EXTREMELY well to keep the water circulating and clean. I don't know that it HAS to be this way--some of the members who are better on the mechs can answer that.
Is it ok to put an inlet down low on one wall ( tee'd into the skimmer) so I can have a passive or active drain for the pool?
Well, yes, that's what I have. But I suggest you put cut-offs at each so you can shut either off--there's lots of reasons you may want to do that, PLUS you can shut the low drain down slightly to increase skimmer suction.
Slightly tangential: I would suggest you put quick releases EVERYWHERE you think you MAY need them--you'll be glad you did. I would also suggest you stick to Schedule 40 glue-on fittings and PVC. Both hard and TigerFlex make a good combo for the plumbing.
As far as the pump..if I used a Hayward S210T rated at 44 GPH and match it with a pump rated 44GPH at a 5' head I am ok?
I'm not knowledgeable enough to answer intelligently, but I'm using the same sand filter and I use it with a Hayward 2 speed 1hp SuperPump with no problems--you will LOVE a 2 speed pump! I THINK you're OK, but don't make book on it.
Is a pool filler a good idea?
Good NJ source for a package of parts like this?
Shop around. Some places like Branch Brook will have the basic stuff cheap, but you can't get everything from them--and a lot may be compromises. Sun Pools generally has good quality and competent staff--and you pay for that. I am so-so on Harrows myself. Leslie's is all over, and National Pool and Spa sometimes has stuff others don't. Pelican can be good but watch prices. Some stuff is very reasonable, some 'way over priced. Rix Pools is like Sun Pools, but they are a little better on mechanical stuff (not much) and worse in chemical issues.
Plus there are a zillion on-line companies.
The concept of using the house boiler with an indirect tank appeals to me since I can replace the boiler with a super high efficiency condensing boiler down the road. If I do this would the PEX pipe for hot water be the way to go for direct burial and I am thinking i should insulate it. Am i trying too hard?
I wonder if I should run the gas line out there anyway since the trench is dug.
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