Need SOOOO much help!

[lorettasweet]

OK, So this is the 3rd year we've had out pool. 27" above ground. We were told by some local folks (live in KY) last fall that they leave all their equipment out for the Winter. So for the sake of being lazy, we did the same. We've tried to start opening out pool this week. First the pump cover was messed up and had to get a new one. We filled the pool up today and when I went to first backwash I noticed the Pressure gadge wasn't working so I guess the Winter killed it too.

So first question, are they replaceable? How do I go about finding one? It's a hayward pump and sand filter. (I think).

Next question, after I backwashed a few minutes, I turned to rinse for 30 seconds or so, then to filter just to make sure everything was working ok. It seemed to be for a few minutes, but then I noticed the little BULB on the side of the filter would lose the water when it was on filter. It starts out full, then slowely runs out. Does this mean my filter isn't full of water?

Anyway, once I figure out if everything is running ok, then I have 200 questions on how to get the green nasty soup cleaned up inside the pool! haha. Thanks for the help, I wanted to start early this year to give me time to get everything cleared up. Thanks in advance for the help.

[Poconos]

That little bulb, a.k.a. sight glass, looks at what is going out the waste or discharge port. At least on my Hayward multi-port valve. It's used to determine when the water is clear in backwash mode. When you're on FILTER then the sight glass should be a non-event and out of the flow circuit. Quite likely it will drain out. On the pressure gauge, if they freeze they will become innacurate. Cheap replacement, probably for $10 or so...not sure as I never had to buy one.
Al

[CarlD]

So...All the work you saved yourself by not closing down has come back as 3x as much work. Unless you live in Florida or Hawaii and never close your pool, turning off your filter and forgetting it will be very expensive come spring--especially if you've had some freezes. Pools and ice are a bad combo if you haven't prepared the pool for it.

Ice breaks stuff when it can't expand.

[lorettasweet]

I kinda figured out the Bulb thingie after I posted. (sight glass). I was thinking that when it's on filter it didn't matter. I guess just the gauge not working had me puzzled about that too. But hey, the somewhat good news.

I mean this pool was SOOOOOO green! Pondscum green. I loaded it with 10 bags of shock today and ran the filter, backwashing every hour or so. It's already starting to clear up some. Earlier I couldn't see the 2nd step going into the pool, now I can faintly make out the 3rd.

I've gotta go read some on the killing algae part of the forum to figure out exactly what I need to do to get it good and clear. Any tips? What do you guys do at the first of the year when it's really rreally bad?

[waterbear]

Basically you are on the right track. Bring your FC up to shock levels (this depends on the CYA levels in your pool) and keep it there until the algae is gone and vacumn to waste to get rid of the dead algae that will settle out. (make sure your pH is in proper range since chlorine is more effective at lower pH).
If you post the numbers for your water people can give more exact advice.

[lorettasweet]

What's FC?

I have a crappy test kit for PH and CL. Just shows the colors and you match them up to the levels on the sides of the beekers or whatever. I tested and both were off the charts. Should I add PH balancer now? Or wait until the shock kills out some of the algea?

[waterbear]

FC means Free Chlorine, that's chlorine that is availabe to act as a sanitizer. The type of test kit you describe sounds like it uses OTO as the reagent and gives you a yellow color to compare. It only will test total chlorine which is a combination of free chlorine and combined chlorine (CC). Get yourself a good drop based test kit that will test:
FC Free Chlorine
TC Total Chlorine
(by subtracting the FC reading from the TC reading you will get your combinded chlorine (CC) which ideally should be 0)
pH
ALK Total Alkalinity
CH Calcium Hardness (only important if your pool is plaster, you have a heater, or have VERY hard or soft fill water)
CYA Cyanuric Acid, also known as stabilizer or conditioner. This acts as a 'sunscreen' for your chlorine and helps protect it from degredation by UV rays in sunlight. It is a two edged sword, however, and too high a level can cause all sorts of problems with algae and will require running your FC at higher levels to compensate.

I would HIGHLY recommend Ben's kit that is sold on the sister website http://www.poolsolutions.com but there are kits from other companies that will work. Walmart even sells a 5 way drop based kit for about $15 dollars but it will only measure total chlorine. You want to look for a kit that uses the DPD chlorine test (color change is pint to red), or even better , the FAS-DPS chlorine test (a titration test that is extremely accurate) instead of one that uses OTO (color change is yellow)
DO NOT USE TEST STRIPS since they will not give you the accuracy you need to successfully balance your water and monitor your chlorine levels.

Once you get your kit post (in the water treatment section of the forum) your:
pool size in gallons
pool finish (plaster, fiberglass, vinyl)
FC
TC
pH
ALK
CH
CYA
and you will find that you will get the help you need to get your pool clear and sparkling in a very short time!

[Watermom]

We really need some numbers to be able to offer advice. I wouldn't blindly start adding a bunch of stuff until you know what your levels are. Think about buying the test kit that Ben sells at the sister site to this one poolsolutions.com. But, in the meantime, try and get a kit that will measure FC, TC (total chlorine), alk, ph and cya if you can. (A drops based kit, not test strips.) Then, post your numbers here and someone can better advise you.

Watermom

[lorettasweet]

We really need some numbers to be able to offer advice. I wouldn't blindly start adding a bunch of stuff until you know what your levels are. Think about buying the test kit that Ben sells at the sister site to this one poolsolutions.com. But, in the meantime, try and get a kit that will measure FC, TC (total chlorine), alk, ph and cya if you can. (A drops based kit, not test strips.) Then, post your numbers here and someone can better advise you.

Watermom

Great, I will try to find one in the morning and test and post. I really want to learn how to properly get it clear and keep it clear. I had a miserable time last summer with it.

[lorettasweet]

FC means Free Chlorine, that's chlorine that is availabe to act as a sanitizer. The type of test kit you describe sounds like it uses OTO as the reagent and gives you a yellow color to compare. It only will test total chlorine which is a combination of free chlorine and combined chlorine (CC). Get yourself a good drop based test kit that will test:
FC Free Chlorine
TC Total Chlorine
(by subtracting the FC reading from the TC reading you will get your combinded chlorine (CC) which ideally should be 0)
pH
ALK Total Alkalinity
CH Calcium Hardness (only important if your pool is plaster, you have a heater, or have VERY hard or soft fill water)
CYA Cyanuric Acid, also known as stabilizer or conditioner. This acts as a 'sunscreen' for your chlorine and helps protect it from degredation by UV rays in sunlight. It is a two edged sword, however, and too high a level can cause all sorts of problems with algae and will require running your FC at higher levels to compensate.

I would HIGHLY recommend Ben's kit that is sold on the sister website http://www.poolsolutions.com but there are kits from other companies that will work. Walmart even sells a 5 way drop based kit for about $15 dollars but it will only measure total chlorine. You want to look for a kit that uses the DPD chlorine test (color change is pint to red), or even better , the FAS-DPS chlorine test (a titration test that is extremely accurate) instead of one that uses OTO (color change is yellow)
DO NOT USE TEST STRIPS since they will not give you the accuracy you need to successfully balance your water and monitor your chlorine levels.

Once you get your kit post (in the water treatment section of the forum) your:
pool size in gallons
pool finish (plaster, fiberglass, vinyl)
FC
TC
pH
ALK
CH
CYA
and you will find that you will get the help you need to get your pool clear and sparkling in a very short time!

You guys are great! I really really appreciate your help. Hopefully I'll post numbers tomorrow.