Quote Originally Posted by vrogan
I am using test strips, 2 different ones. One that test FC and the other Total Chlorine. Total Chlorine is lowest one it can be to be considered "ok" per test strip (I forgot to bring tose readings with me, I am trying to rember the color chart).

You need to get a good drops based test in order to get accurate results. I believe Wal-Mart has a 6-way test that includes CYA.

We have dosed it and dosed it with granualr chlorine - gave it the required amount as per instructiuons to "shock". This might be hypo-cal which will add calcium to your pool - what are your calcium levels - high levels can make the pool cloudy

We also put in enought stabilizer as required per instructions - it says nothing on the bottle about taking 5 days to dissolve or anything, only states to let pump reciculate for 4 hours so it can completely dissolve. I just spoke to my husband and he said he just added chlorine - "shocked it" per instructions.
You need to get a good test kit and post a full set of numbers

TC (Total Chlorine)
FC (Free Chlorine)
PH
TA (Total Alkalinity)
CA (Calcium)
CYA

Next you need to pick up some BORAX from Wal-Mart to raise your PH - really you want it between 7.2-7.6 (do this BEFORE you raise the chlorine level above 10ppm - when testing for PH with a chlorine level above 10ppm it can interfere with the PH test)

Also - what type of pool do you have - vinyl, concrete, fiberglass?

You also need to pick up plain old laundry bleach (unscented) 6% strength (usually listed as "ultra bleach"). Use the bleach to add chlorine. Each gallon will add about 6ppm for every 10,000. You need to get to about 15ppm (another reason for a good test kit) and keep it there by testing 3X a day and adding more bleach to get back up to 15ppm until the pool is clear.