+ Reply to Thread
Results 1 to 10 of 41

Thread: 7.2 vs >8.2 Grrrrrrrrrrr

Hybrid View

  1. #1
    Infidel is offline ** No working email address ** Infidel 0
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Houston, TX
    Posts
    20

    Default Re: 7.2 vs >8.2 Grrrrrrrrrrr

    A 22.5ppm jolt this am leaving for work, nice and blue by the time I got home.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Caledon, Ontario, Canada.
    Posts
    165

    Default Re: 7.2 vs >8.2 Grrrrrrrrrrr

    congrats !!

    you've almost earned your stripes as a true beleiver in the BBB method.

    keep the filtering going and hold the CL pretty high for a couple more days

    Brush it everywhere to uncover any living algae that may be hiding under a layer of dead slime.

    Next week you need to get a handle on the high level of CYA.
    I don't recall if you were using stabilized chlorine ( pucks or tablets ) that continually add CYA, but it is a pretty common trap. The CYA keeps going up and the owner sees the CL levels at 3 to 5 and thinks everything is just dandy.
    Then the frog pond hits and until you learn that CYA at 100 or more is counter-productive, nothing clears up the algae ( for very long )

    The other good news about all this is that the algae ran up the red flag. If algae can grow, so can the nasty bacteria that may make you and the kids sick. Coliform can flourish in the same soup as algae and if the pool didn't go green you might had a rough time until the connection got made that the pool was the source of the infections.

    Keep it up. If you need help on a few trick to get the CYA down, there are lots of good folks here to help
    Last edited by brent.roberts; 07-05-2006 at 08:17 PM.

  3. #3
    Infidel is offline ** No working email address ** Infidel 0
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Houston, TX
    Posts
    20

    Default Re: 7.2 vs >8.2 Grrrrrrrrrrr

    Thanks Brent. I inherited the pool when I bought the house a year ago, it has an inline chlorinator that takes pucks, the previous owner used pucks adn the pool guy that oriented me used pucks, so, I've used pucks. I haven't used a puck yet since finding this site but the damage is done with CYA at 100+ from years of puck use. I'm considering a 50% water change, maybe at the end of the season though.

    Now, did I kill the algae with the supershock addition? Was I just pissing in the wind adding 10ppm every 4-6 hours. I added around 16 gallons of bleach over a 3 day period, only improvement I saw was the last 3 gallon addition which seemed to clear it up. Perhaps patience is a bad thing, and an aggressive superchlorination one time is the answer?

    Anyways, my sand filter isn't too effective at filtering algae, alive or dead. Recommendations for removing the cloudiness now? I'm thinking of letting it settle to the bottom then vac to waste, seems to have worked the best in the past. Recent rainfall has given me the extra volume I need to send it to waste.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    127

    Default Re: 7.2 vs >8.2 Grrrrrrrrrrr

    What does vac to waste mean? I've seen this several times and I'm trying to figure out what it means. Can anyone help a newbie? Thanks!

  5. #5
    CarlD's Avatar
    CarlD is offline SuperMod Emeritus Vortex Adjuster CarlD 4 stars CarlD 4 stars CarlD 4 stars CarlD 4 stars CarlD 4 stars CarlD 4 stars
    Join Date
    Dec 1969
    Location
    North Central NJ
    Posts
    6,607

    Default Re: 7.2 vs >8.2 Grrrrrrrrrrr

    Quote Originally Posted by denanbob
    What does vac to waste mean? I've seen this several times and I'm trying to figure out what it means. Can anyone help a newbie? Thanks!
    Normally, when you vacuum a pool, you plug the hose into the skimmer or the low drain and the pump sucks all the junk out of the pool while you vacuum. You can either direct that dirty water through the filter and let the filter try to clean it (and if some of the dirt is too small it may not) or you can redirect the water to a drain--to waste. Some filters, like sand filters, have a valve on top that allows you to:
    1) filter the water
    2) simply circulate the water and bypass the filter
    3) backwash the filter (force water through backwards knocking the junk loose and directing it to a drain)
    4) go directly to the drain and not filter it.
    5) block off the filter and pump.

    There's a 6th position but I don't remember what it is.

    Some filters, like cartridges, don't have a valve like this and you must either open a port on the bottom or just plan on cleaning it.

    You can also vacuum to waste by syphon if you can get the hose end outside the pool lower than the pool bottom. The natural syphon acts like a vacuum and by definition vacuums to waste.
    Carl

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Caledon, Ontario, Canada.
    Posts
    165

    Default Re: 7.2 vs >8.2 Grrrrrrrrrrr

    Infidel

    There really does seem to be a "break point" as some folks here call it.
    With your super high CYA your break point will be way up there. Sometimes the advice given here is a bit conservative because some folks with vinyl lined pools might take the method and end up bleaching their liner. Not your problem with a concrete/plaster pool.

    Vac to waste will be a good idea. Shut down for a couple hours, let it settle, set up the vac, switch to waste then start the pump and it will be most effective.

    When you finish that backwash the filter, get a small bag of Diatomacious Earth (DE). Set the valve on filter and note carefully the pressure reading. Then add DE to the skimmer a cup or two at a time until you see the pressure go up 1 PSI. Keep t

    he pump running like that for a couple days. The DE will help quite a bit to get the finest dead algae out. Don't inhale. Not the grass... the DE. The pool grade DE is not good in your lungs.

    You should by now have seen the famous "best guess" chart for the chlorination level vs CYA levels. Take good note. You will need to keep the chlorine at pretty high levels until you get the water exchange done. Try diluting the CYA test with distilled water to see just how much above 100 you are. Keep your PH in the 7.2 - 7.3 range and the CL you do have will be more effective.

    Good Work.

  7. #7
    Infidel is offline ** No working email address ** Infidel 0
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Houston, TX
    Posts
    20

    Default Re: 7.2 vs >8.2 Grrrrrrrrrrr

    Thanks, I lurked for a while before registering, and I usually search pretty thorougly before posting, it was the pH issue with the 2 test kits that initially had me lost.

    Let the pool settle over night, not a lot settled out. I'm going to add some DE, which I've been meaning to do for a while, I've always been dissapointed in my sand filter. I need to double check my pH as well.

    As for maintaining the Cl level, I'm at a loss. I can't differentiate the color very well and I've got a 5x dilution, 15-25ppm is the best resolution I can get at my levels. Is there a better test kit out there with a more definitive end point for high Cl? Is the DPD-FAS more accurate than the Taylor kit I'm using?

    BTW, what can I do with the 30lbs of stabilized pellets I bought shortly before finding this site?

    edit: I should add, it may seem tedious to continuously have to explain what DE is, or what vac to waste is, but there's a lot of new people not familiar with things that appreciate the information. There's nothing more annoying than a bunch of old guys on a forum that rip people's heads off for asking questions that everyone else considers common knowledge. Thanks.
    Last edited by Infidel; 07-06-2006 at 10:51 AM.

+ Reply to Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts