7.2 vs >8.2 Grrrrrrrrrrr

[brent.roberts]

I want to encourage you to check and top up the chlorine more frequently than every 12 hours.

Here's what can happen.

At 7:00 PM you top you your chlorine to say 20ppm. If there is a lot of algae
in the pool it can be down to 8 or 10 PPM in 2 hours. After 4 hours the level is so low that it starts growing and reproducing again. By the time you get up the next morning at 7:00 AM to top it off, you are back to the same pea soup you had when you went to bed.

Now you top up at 7:00 AM and you have the whole day's sunlight to kick the h*** out of the chlorine along with the algae basking in the sun and reproducing.

Try to shorten the cycle. Initially topping up every couple hours could be quite important. As the algae concentrations go down, the yo-yo of your chlorine levels will slow down and you can relax the schedule a bit, but you've got to break the back of the chlorine.

Do you have a reliable CYA measurement yet ??

[Infidel]

Part of the problem with checking the Cl is that I have pretty wide margin of error due to dilution, I'm probably looking at +/- 20ppm when I look at the comparator and the color is between the 3 and 5, and I'm at a 5x or 10x dilution. I could have 10-15ppm of Cl consumed immediately and not be able to detect it on the test kit.

I'm using the poolcalc to determine the 12.5ppm, it's more like an 8K gallon pool, I'm using 6% bleach in 1.7 gal jugs ~12.5ppm addition/jug.

I agree that the free Cl could be consumed within a few hours, leaving me below the breakpoint/shock level for too long. I'll add more frequently. I know the consequences of not enough Cl, but I'm not sure there are any bad things that can happen if I over chlorinate. With my high CYA and organic issue I think that a high Cl condition wouldn't persist very long. Wife and kid swam today with elevated Cl with no issues, about 4 hours after the last 12.5ppm addition, there's actually not a lot of Cl odor either. It's either getting consumed breaking down organics or it's not available due to pH or CYA issues. Ph is maintaining around 7.2.

[Infidel]

A 22.5ppm jolt this am leaving for work, nice and blue by the time I got home.

[brent.roberts]

congrats !!

you've almost earned your stripes as a true beleiver in the BBB method.

keep the filtering going and hold the CL pretty high for a couple more days

Brush it everywhere to uncover any living algae that may be hiding under a layer of dead slime.

Next week you need to get a handle on the high level of CYA.
I don't recall if you were using stabilized chlorine ( pucks or tablets ) that continually add CYA, but it is a pretty common trap. The CYA keeps going up and the owner sees the CL levels at 3 to 5 and thinks everything is just dandy.
Then the frog pond hits and until you learn that CYA at 100 or more is counter-productive, nothing clears up the algae ( for very long )

The other good news about all this is that the algae ran up the red flag. If algae can grow, so can the nasty bacteria that may make you and the kids sick. Coliform can flourish in the same soup as algae and if the pool didn't go green you might had a rough time until the connection got made that the pool was the source of the infections.

Keep it up. If you need help on a few trick to get the CYA down, there are lots of good folks here to help

[Infidel]

Thanks Brent. I inherited the pool when I bought the house a year ago, it has an inline chlorinator that takes pucks, the previous owner used pucks adn the pool guy that oriented me used pucks, so, I've used pucks. I haven't used a puck yet since finding this site but the damage is done with CYA at 100+ from years of puck use. I'm considering a 50% water change, maybe at the end of the season though.

Now, did I kill the algae with the supershock addition? Was I just pissing in the wind adding 10ppm every 4-6 hours. I added around 16 gallons of bleach over a 3 day period, only improvement I saw was the last 3 gallon addition which seemed to clear it up. Perhaps patience is a bad thing, and an aggressive superchlorination one time is the answer?

Anyways, my sand filter isn't too effective at filtering algae, alive or dead. Recommendations for removing the cloudiness now? I'm thinking of letting it settle to the bottom then vac to waste, seems to have worked the best in the past. Recent rainfall has given me the extra volume I need to send it to waste.

[denanbob]

What does vac to waste mean? I've seen this several times and I'm trying to figure out what it means. Can anyone help a newbie? Thanks!

[CarlD]

What does vac to waste mean? I've seen this several times and I'm trying to figure out what it means. Can anyone help a newbie? Thanks!

Normally, when you vacuum a pool, you plug the hose into the skimmer or the low drain and the pump sucks all the junk out of the pool while you vacuum. You can either direct that dirty water through the filter and let the filter try to clean it (and if some of the dirt is too small it may not) or you can redirect the water to a drain--to waste. Some filters, like sand filters, have a valve on top that allows you to:
1) filter the water
2) simply circulate the water and bypass the filter
3) backwash the filter (force water through backwards knocking the junk loose and directing it to a drain)
4) go directly to the drain and not filter it.
5) block off the filter and pump.

There's a 6th position but I don't remember what it is.

Some filters, like cartridges, don't have a valve like this and you must either open a port on the bottom or just plan on cleaning it.

You can also vacuum to waste by syphon if you can get the hose end outside the pool lower than the pool bottom. The natural syphon acts like a vacuum and by definition vacuums to waste.