Can you review this before I take the plunge?

[ScottsdaleSwim]

First time poster but I've been using the forum for a few months.

Okay
I have a
10,000 gallon vinyl lined pool
Cya is approx 110 (vial only goes to 80 or 90)
Calcium Hardness 34
Ph 7.6
TA 130
Pac Fab Nautilus fiberglass DE filter (old!)
Heater

Here's the question My total CL is 1.5 and FC is 0 so that means my CC is 1.50 so I should shock it using x 10 right? Which would be 15. I'm using 10% Sodium Hypochlorite.
I'm about to add 1.5 gallons of SodHyp. Should it be more considering the cya level?

I've only been using the SodHyp or bleach. We used the pucks for nearly a year and that's why my cya is so high. I've drained and filled and drained and filled. It was a nightmare.

The pool looks great except for a little DE at the bottom. I replaced the filter grids and replaced the "o" ring (totally missing) on the stand pipe . I think it's coming from the strainer on the air relief tube. Leslies sold me a metal screen type strainer and it used to have a really super fine mesh fabric. Almost like a teeny tiny drum. I ordered a new one online. Why did I listen to them?!

I think that's about it. My main Question was about the amount of chlorine but I welcome any and all suggestions.

[CarlD]

You are right that you have a problem of no FC and 1.5ppm of CC.

Sorry, but you are WAY too low if that CYA is right:

According to Ben's "Best Guess" table, for a CYA of 100 to 200 PPM, your MAINTENANCE Free Chlorine should be between 8 and 15ppm. Your shock level is 25ppm.
You need 2 1/2 gallons of 10% to get your pool to 25ppm--where it needs to be right now.

1 gallon of 10% will add exactly 10ppm to 10,000 gallons, so calculations in your head are easy.

If your CYA is right, you need to keep 8-15ppm FC everyday, and shock it as necessary at 25ppm.

If your CYA is lower, you can use lower levels. The Best Guess table is stickied in one of the topics here.

[ScottsdaleSwim]

Thanks so much! That was fast.

The CYA is right. Unfortunately. I plan on draining half this weekend. Prior to reading this board I was draining a little at a time and filling and then draining a little more- Which is pointless really when you consider how I'm draining diluted water. I had to use a glass and red food coloring to show my husband what I meant. He's afraid the liner will tear or pull away if we drain 1/2.

I read on another thread that it's okay to drain 1/2. Is that correct?

I'll add 2.5 gallons and keep it between 8 and 15 until Friday when I drain it- halfway.

I was using this formula to determine the amount of chlorine
Sodium Hypochlorite
(0.1016) x (breakpoint factor) x (pool volume / 10,000) = gallons to add
Note "/" means divided by. *not from this forum.

I'm using a brand new test kit from Leslies. It's the Taylor kit with 3 vials for Calcium hardness. I was using one that had only two..no buffer and it was screwy. It also allows testing for FC instead of just TC. I had only been using the cheap OTO for Chlorine.

Thanks so much!

[CarlD]

Thanks so much! That was fast.

The CYA is right. Unfortunately. I plan on draining half this weekend. Prior to reading this board I was draining a little at a time and filling and then draining a little more- Which is pointless really when you consider how I'm draining diluted water. I had to use a glass and red food coloring to show my husband what I meant. He's afraid the liner will tear or pull away if we drain 1/2.

I read on another thread that it's okay to drain 1/2. Is that correct?

Sure. You must keep 6" to 1' of water in the shallowest part--that's all. Draining half is no problem.

I'll add 2.5 gallons and keep it between 8 and 15 until Friday when I drain it- halfway.

I was using this formula to determine the amount of chlorine
Sodium Hypochlorite
(0.1016) x (breakpoint factor) x (pool volume / 10,000) = gallons to add
Note "/" means divided by. *not from this forum.

I don't know that formula: We use the best guess table for the shock level. To calculate how much chlorine gets you there use:

(1,000,000/PoolVolume) * Bleach Strength * Bleach amount = FC added in ppm (that's parts per million--that's why you divide pool volume into 1 million).

Bleach Strength: If the bleach is 5.25%, use .0525. 6%, .06, etc. Bleach amount is in the same units as Pool Volume--usually gallons, but it works for liters just as well.

I'm using a brand new test kit from Leslies. It's the Taylor kit with 3 vials for Calcium hardness. I was using one that had only two..no buffer and it was screwy. It also allows testing for FC instead of just TC. I had only been using the cheap OTO for Chlorine.

Thanks so much!

Good luck! Is the kit marked OTO, DPD or FAS-DPD?

[ScottsdaleSwim]

It is a DPD test kit. Good or bad?

My TA was super high a few days ago. I lowered it using Acid and then bought a fountain aerator to bring the ph up. It worked beautifully.

When I was in Leslie's buying the test kit I heard the clerks muddling up another pool so when I had the chance, I scribbled www.poolforum.com on the back of my gum package and gave it to them. They were frustrated and getting pi**ed off at the clerk because he didn''t know what he was talking about.
They'll probably kick me out the next time I go back.

My first CYA reading was near 300 at the beginning of the summer.

pucks pucks and more pucks then treating it with bagged shock.

Thank goodness for this forum!

[CarlD]

What DPD is, is limited. Your range may only be to 5ppm for chlorine.

I THINK the "CarlD Shotglass Method" will work with DPD. You dilute the pool water with steam distilled water (avail at chain drug stores). 1 shot pool, 1 shot distilled doubles the range your read. 1 shot pool, 2 shots distilled triples it, but your accuracy gets harder and harder to maintain. DPD should also allow you to differentiate FC and CC.