I suggest that you look outside your narrow-minded box and do more research of your own. I've had a vinyl pool for years. We have used both Baquacil and chlorine. There may be tried and true ways of getting rid of algae without algecides, but leaving your chlorine above 15 ppm for a long number of days can also cause larger problems in the long run, stabilizer or not. Using an algaecide is also a tried and true method of dealing with algae. Almost all regular maintainance programs have you use one. I have dealt with more than one pool care specialist and swimming pool chemical company and have done a lot of research about pool problems on webssites other than this (believe it or not there are other ones out there just as reputable and as useful as you). All other research and discussion that I have had with ppl care specialists for the last 10+ year agree that high PH can lead to algae blooms and once you get an algae bloom it is harder to bring the PH down. (I have had many algae problems in the past.) Lowering the PH to the normal range actually helps make it easier for the chlorine to work more efficiently, does less damage to your pool, and weakens the algae...to a degree...thus making it easier to kill off. If you don't believe me, maybe you should do more research. I also thought that the point of this forum was to share information, from person to person, about methods that have worked for us. I know that this algaecide, whatever the ingredients, have knocked down our algae bloom quicker than any other sanitizer or other product out there, have kept it down, and have allowed us to balance our pool more quickly and efficiently than in past years. Which is obviously better for the pool in the long run or there wouldn't be basic guidlines for your levels. If you don't believe in my methods, check out the information copied from a few other websites.

Once algae has been allowed to bloom, it is quite tiresome to destroy. The common steps to get rid of an algae problem are:

Shock treat the pool. If you are using chlorine, aim for at least 10ppm free chlorine (10 times the recommended minimum level).
Circulate the water round the clock if possible.
Brush the pool and vacuum.
Add a commercial algaecide prepared for the algae you have (green, mustard or black) according to the instructions.
Repeat brushing and vacuuming daily if possible. Add more chlorine if the level falls below 5ppm.
Clean or backwash your filter regularly.

www.poolwizard.net

Select a Problem Green Algae Chlorine Odor Cloudy Water Corrosion of Metal Parts Discolored Water Eye & Skin Irritation Foaming Scale Scum Too Much Availabile Chlorine



Problem: Green Algae

Symptom
• Slippery pool surface
• Slimy walls
• Dull green water

Possible Causes
• Low free available chlorine
• High pH

Solution
1. Adjust pH to 7.2-7.4 with HTH® pH MinusTM or HTH® pH Plus® at least onehour before shocking.
2. Shock treat your pool water with an HTH Shock product.
3. Brush walls vigorously using the brush designed for your pool type.
4. Run filter for 24 hours or until water clears.
5. Vacuum.
6. Add an HTH® Algaecide.

Preventative Maintenance
• Maintain free available chlorine at 1.0-4.0 ppm
• Maintain pH in the 7.2-7.8 range
• Shock treat pool weekly

[COLOR="black"]www.hthpools.com[/COLOR]

Algae does not cause disease. It is a plant that turns sunlight and carbon dioxide into food and provides nutrients for bacteria which can then multiply rapidly (and may cause illness). When there is algae present in the pool water, the chlorine is used up rapidly trying to combat its growth. This process has a tendency to raise the pH, thus decreasing the efficiency of the remaining free chlorine.

Unchecked algae growth can turn the swimming pool cloudy or makes the pool water green and results in foul odours and tastes. Black algae, which is more difficult to control than green or blue-green algae, can also stain the swimming pool's walls and floor.

Prevention is better than cure. Adequate levels of free chlorine will prevent algae from growing out of control. When algae growth is noticed, it requires harsh treatment. Usually shock treatment with chlorine or an algaecide is recommended. If the pool has a mineral sanitiser such as the Pool Wizard installed, algae growth is a sign that you need a refill. Algae cannot grow in water sanitised with the Pool Wizard, provided the water is properly balanced.

www.havuz.org

TOO LATE TO PREVENT IT...HOW DO I KILL ALGAE?
A: First off, balance your water, paying particular attention to pH. Secondly, check your filter system and clean if necessary. Adjust valving for optimum circulation and allow it to run 24 hours a day until the pool clears. Turn on automatic cleaners to help stir things up. Backwash as necessary.

For suspended green algae, shock the pool...hard. Put in as much hypochlorite as it takes to turn the pool a cloudy, bluish/gray color. Brush the walls and floors towards the main drain. Backwash the filter when the pressure gauge indicates the need. Using a flocculent may be a good choice if the pool is extremely "swampy". If you cannot see the bottom of the pool, and it is filled with leaves and debris, it may be wise to drain the pool, acid wash and refill it.

After the chlorine level has come down below 5 ppm, add an algaecide and brush the pool again. When it all settles, vacuum the pool (to waste, if possible). Check and rebalance the pool water if necessary.

For algae which is not suspended, but only clinging to the walls, follow the same advice above, first shock with brushing, then add an algaecide, brush again, vacuum to waste (preferred) or vacuum and then backwash the filter. Use of a steel bristled brush is recommended for algae on plaster pools (use nylon brushes on vinyl). Filter, Filter, Filter.

For black algae, the brushing part is very important. You must tear through the protective layers so the chemicals can destroy the plant from the inside out. Pumice stones work well to knock off the heads of black algae. (Don't forget to vacuum them up later, and backwash them out of the filter ASAP). Also effective on the black algae nodules is sprinkling granular trichlor over the spots (of course if they're on the wall this is next to impossible). Rubbing the spots on the walls with a trichlor tablet or stick can also be effective to knock off the heads and get trichlor directly to the roots. Follow up with a dose of copper algaecide, or high strength polymers. Simazine, an herbicide, was a very effective black algae treatment, but is no longer available in America.

If algae has been an ongoing problem in your pool for several years, you may do well to drain the pool. Many years of algae builds up dead algae cells and lots of other solids in the water that contribute to its rejuvenation. Acid washing and/or pressure washing is preferable once drained, to kill the roots of the algae embedded in the plaster. NEXT: change the sand if you have a sand filter or change the cartridge if it is a cartridge type. Sand should be changed every 5-7 yrs (or every 2 if you use baquacil), and cartridge filters should have new elements every 1-2 years. If you have a DE filter (good for you!), you should remove the elements, spray clean, soak in a 10:1 water/bleach solution, rinse and replace. A well functioning filter will prevent algae.

Another item to look at is the method of sanitation and the type of filtering you have. Far too many pools out there were sold with marginal filter systems, meant to run 24 hrs per day. Well, these systems get old and tired, or the new owners only run it 12 hrs per day (or less). For good algae prevention, we need a combination of good filtration, sanitation and circulation. It may be time to consider changing the old pump and filter. It's cheaper and easier to pay a little up front for more chemicals, electricity or better equipment than all the money and aggravation spent on fighting algae blooms.

www.poolcenter.com