New Pool Questions

[CarlD]

Not bad advice to check with the builder so you don't violate the warranty.

However, Gunite pools should keep a calcium level of 200-400--no more or less, and a T/A of 80 or 90 to 125. You don't want to be out of that range.

If pH is low, you want it to be above 6.9...Unless there's something the builder insists on, but I'm not familiar enough with the startup chemistry of gunite/plaster pools. The calcium leeching out of the new walls raises pH. That's why Tri-Chlor tabs are great for new gunite pools--they lower pH and fight the tendency of pH to rise in the new pool. And they add CYA (stabilizer) which you need--assuming the builder didn't dump a ton of CYA in to start. If he didn't the tabs are great because they add CYA slowly, but keep a constant chlorine level in the mean time via floater or inline chlorinator. When CYA hits your target, and pH is under control, then you can rely on bleach or an SWG. If calcium is low, you'll need to add it seperately.

Cal-Hypo is good for new gunite pools if calcium is low as it will raise the calcium level. In that case, you'll need to add muriatic acid for pH and CYA to get to the right stabilizer level as necessary.

Shaken or stirred? Why that depends on what you mix it in! But use it ONLY for the Chlorine test, not the others.

If you can find a separate FAS-DPD test kit (Leslie's sometimes has them for $20) you are all set. However, while the 5-way kit is a bargain, it just still isn't as good as Ben's kit--and not just for the chlorine tests.

[KurtV]

Carl said: "However, Gunite pools should keep a calcium level of 200-400--no more or less, and a T/A of 80 or 90 to 125. You don't want to be out of that range."

Carl, At the risk of sounding like a broken record, that's not necessarily true for new pools; especially with regard to alkalinity in high-acid start-ups of exposed aggregate/quartz finishes. In those cases you want the water to eat some of the plaster (which will also increase your calcium hardness, I think).

[PoolDoc]

The *RIGHT* way to start up, or cure, plaster pools . . .

. . . is something I wish I knew, but I don't.

There are multiple methods, all of which have (as best I can tell) 'worked' some of the time, and all of which seem also to have 'failed' some of the time.

This is an area of huge dispute in the pool industry, with some confusing research of varying quality being brought into play. Everybody who's studying this -- and plaster is one of the few areas of pool construction and operation that is being seriously studied in public -- has an axe to grind, and knows what they really, REALLY WANT to find. Some of them are still trustworthy, I think, but it makes it tough to fit all the bits of research together.

The bottom line?

I do NOT know the best way to start up plaster pools. There are plenty of people who are entirely sure that THEY do know, but the evidence is too confusing, and to contradictory to warrant any such confidence. As is said of other disputes, this is one where's there more heat than light!

There are a few things that seem to be held by all, or at least held by some and rejected by none:

When starting or 'curing' a newly plastered pool . . .
+ Brush a lot, and don't let stuff build up.
+ Avoid high alkalinity (> 160 ppm)
+ Avoid metals, even if you plan to use a ionizer later.
+ Avoid adding lots of salt, even if you plan to use a salt chlorinator later.

Beyond that, you probably had best go with what your contractor requires of you, in order to maintain your warranty on his work.

One suggestion that I'd make is that you get -- demand, if necessary -- all the conditions he expects, in order to maintain your warranty. Then, make a log sheet and DOCUMENT your compliance with his requirements. This won't prevent all problems, but it should help prevent, or at least minimize, some of the many disputes over whether the problem was caused by the pool owners failure to maintain pool chemistry.

Ben

[CarlD]

Carl said: "However, Gunite pools should keep a calcium level of 200-400--no more or less, and a T/A of 80 or 90 to 125. You don't want to be out of that range."

Carl, At the risk of sounding like a broken record, that's not necessarily true for new pools; especially with regard to alkalinity in high-acid start-ups of exposed aggregate/quartz finishes. In those cases you want the water to eat some of the plaster (which will also increase your calcium hardness, I think).

I would defer to the builder to avoid voiding the warranty, and I am not an expert on plaster pools--Ben is FAR more knowledgable but these are the general rules of thumb. You seem to be as well.

[KurtV]

Far from an expert; I just hired a bad pool builder so I had to keep checking up on the right way to do things vs. his way.

[md_rider]

Well, I re-checked everything this morning. Here are the results:

Cl - 3
pH - 7.2
TA - 20
CH - 210
CYA - did not really register

Seems like things are starting to come together. I guess it's not bad after 1 week of water.

I added 2 more Chlorine pucks to the skimmer, the first 2 were just about gone. I figure I will wait a few more days before I try and raise the TA, let things settle out more. Seem reasonable?

[KurtV]

md rider,
You should probably check with your builder or the manufacturer of your plaster on how long you're supposed to keep your pool in the "high-acid" state before adjusting the alkalinity. At least for DiamondBrite, high-acid essentially means zero alkalinity.

[md_rider]

Kurtv: We just have regular white plaster. The builder never mentioned anything about a "high-acid" start-up. Just said to keep an eye on the pH because of the plaster curing and add acid as necessary. I will check to make sure. Thanks.