Not bad advice to check with the builder so you don't violate the warranty.
However, Gunite pools should keep a calcium level of 200-400--no more or less, and a T/A of 80 or 90 to 125. You don't want to be out of that range.
If pH is low, you want it to be above 6.9...Unless there's something the builder insists on, but I'm not familiar enough with the startup chemistry of gunite/plaster pools. The calcium leeching out of the new walls raises pH. That's why Tri-Chlor tabs are great for new gunite pools--they lower pH and fight the tendency of pH to rise in the new pool. And they add CYA (stabilizer) which you need--assuming the builder didn't dump a ton of CYA in to start. If he didn't the tabs are great because they add CYA slowly, but keep a constant chlorine level in the mean time via floater or inline chlorinator. When CYA hits your target, and pH is under control, then you can rely on bleach or an SWG. If calcium is low, you'll need to add it seperately.
Cal-Hypo is good for new gunite pools if calcium is low as it will raise the calcium level. In that case, you'll need to add muriatic acid for pH and CYA to get to the right stabilizer level as necessary.
Shaken or stirred? Why that depends on what you mix it in! But use it ONLY for the Chlorine test, not the others.
If you can find a separate FAS-DPD test kit (Leslie's sometimes has them for $20) you are all set. However, while the 5-way kit is a bargain, it just still isn't as good as Ben's kit--and not just for the chlorine tests.
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