Please review test results and advise

[reneep]

This mornings readings are:
Hardness =0
CL=3 (Walmart 6 way kit only gives one CL reading. Is it total or free?)
TA=150
PH=7.2
CYA=100

I have been trying to lower PH to begin aerating to lower TA. (as learned in the forum) Adding lots of muratic and dry acid. Finally dropped to 7.2. I guess I need to take it a bit lower?

I have learned that hardness is not critical for vinyl pools but how about fiberglass pools?

I have also been doing partial drain and refill to lower the CYA but is is a slow process as I do not have a bottom drain. I can only do about 5 inches at a time and with my work schedule that pretty much means on the weekends.

Am I in a catch 22 adn trying to adjust too many things at once? I am converting from 3 inch tabs - hence the high CYA ( I was at 200 when I started). So does the partial water change cause the high TA?

What should I focus on first?

Thanks, you guys are great. I have learned a lot from the forum, now just to put it in practice and take control of my pool...

[JohnT]

I wouldn't worry about your alkalinity since you have a vinyl pool. With your high CYA, you need a bit more chlorine for safe water. Check out Ben's best guess table for exact numbers. The Walmart kit just measures total chlorine.

[reneep]

Actually, I have a fiberglass pool. I was told the range should be 100-120.

[mbar]

I have a fiberglass pool and like to keep my calcium at 100 - 125, you can do this by adding cal hypo shock, or some calcium. Since you will have to keep your chlorine at a minimum of 8 and shock at 25, you can accomplish raising your calcium with cal hypo over a period of time. Follow the "Best Guess Chart":


Stabilizer . . . . . . Min. FC . . . . Max FC . . . 'Shock' FC
=> 0 ppm . . . . . . . 1 ppm . . . . . 3 ppm . . . . 10 ppm
=> 10 - 20 ppm . . . . 2 ppm . . . . . 5 ppm . . . . 12 ppm
=> 30 - 50 ppm . . . . 3 ppm . . . . . 6 ppm . . . . 15 ppm
=> 60 - 90 ppm . . . . 5 ppm . . . . . 10 ppm . . .. 20 ppm
=> 100 - 200 ppm . . . 8 ppm . . . . . 15 ppm . . .. 25 ppm

You will have to invest in a good test kit, or follow the "shot glass method":

1) Get a shot glass (like you use to mix drinks).
2) Get a gallon of steam distilled water--most mass-market drug chains stock it, and many supermarkets.
3) Mix one shot glass full of pool water with one shot glass full of the distilled in a clean container (like a Pyrex measuring cup).
4) Fill your test cell to the line with the mixture. Add your drops and take the reading.
5) Whatever you read, double it. If it says "3ppm", you have 6ppm. If it reads "5ppm", you have 10ppm.
6) If it's STILL seems like the chorine's too high to read, go to step seven....
7) Mix 1 shot of pool water with TWO shots of distilled water, and re-run the test using that.
8) Now TRIPLE your reading--if it reads "3", it's 9. If it reads "5", it's 15ppm.
9) Going beyond two shots of distilled to 1 shot of pool water is possible (3 shots, quadruple your reading) but you lose accuracy fast. Still if it's the best way of reading chlorine, then you have to do it.

CAVEAT: ONLY use this method to measure chlorine levels. Do not use it for the other tests you run, and do not use it with the FAS-DPD powder test--that goes to 50 to 100ppm of Free Chlorine anyway.

You almost have your alk where you want it. Depending on your fill water, your alk will raise or lower will adding the water.

You are doing a great job, keep up the good work. Having a cya of 100 is not bad as long as you keep the chlorine in the right levels. With a fiberglass pool I don't like to get the ph over 7.6, I like to keep it between 7.2 & 7.6. Fiberglass pools tend to stain with high ph and high chlorine - if there is ANY metals in the water. Feel free to ask any questions you may have. The most important thing to taking control of your own pool it to get a good test kit. The one sold on this site is the best I have used, and you will be able to get support on how to use it here on the forum.

[JohnT]

Actually, I have a fiberglass pool. I was told the range should be 100-120.

Sorry, I misread.

[aylad]

If your fill water is high in TA, then you need to wait until after you're finished lowering your CYA before you adjust it--otherwise you're lowering TA by aeration and then raising it right back up again by refilling--a waste of time and money. If the fill water is low in TA, then the draining/refilling should help lower the TA.

My bigger concern in looking at your numbers is that Cl of 3 with a CYA of 100 is nowhere near enough chlorine--you should keep your Cl no lower than 8 ppm if you don't want to chance an algae bloom.

Janet

[reneep]

Thanks,

I am going to commit to lowering the CYA as the whole point in converting to BBB is to lower chemical use and cost. Taking off work Thursday and Friday to drain and refill then start lowering the TA. Tested the tap water and the TA is 200 so that will be an issue.

I will jsut keep working at it and posting numbers for guidance and reassurance as I learn.