Start up process after refill

[Phillbo]

I'm draining my pool to replaster and will convert to salt at that time .. Anyone have a link to the steps to follow once the pool has been refilled? Pump/SWC run times and salt amount to add etc ....


much appreciated.

[waterbear]

What SWG are you using, how big is your pool, etc, etc, etc. ? The more details you give the more people on here can help.

[Phillbo]

21K gallons and I'm planning to buy an Ecomatic ESC 36 (40K rated) . I'm in Scottsdale Arizona but it's not THAT hot yet ..

[Poolsean]

First, follow the instructions in the Ecomatic manual. Each manufacturer has their own recommended salt level to start off at. But before that, I think every manufacturer recommends balancing your water chemistry first. This means testing and adjusting for Total Alkalinity, Calcium Hardness, pH, Cyanuric acid, Free Chlorine and Total Chlorine (which should be the same). Once balanced, add the salt and allow the pump to operate for at least 24 hrs to circulate the salt all around the pool and balanced evenly. This is accelerated by opening your main drain, running your pump and brushing the salt around to help it dissolve quicker. Do not allow any granular salt to sit on a newly plastered finish for any extended periods of time or staining may occur. Solar salt or water softener salt is different from granular salt in that it does not have the anticaking agent, Yellow Prussiate of Soda (YPS).

Next, depending on the plaster manufacturer, some may say to wait either 2 weeks or a month before adding salt. This is mainly to prevent any problems with adding large amounts of salt to a new pool finish. As long as the salt gets dissolved quickly, there should not be a problem.

Finally, once the water is balanced and the salt has been added, turn on your system to any arbitrary output setting. What's important is that you test the chlorine level first. Let it run and retest the chlorine. Depending on the change in the chlorine level, make your adjustments to the output setting based upon the change. If the chlorine increased, lower the output. If the chlorine decreased, raise the output.

Now, after everything has been adjusted, you should still test your chlorine and pH weekly, until you get a good idea of what your system is doing. Some systems require constant muriatic acid and some require very little. You'll find out what your system needs in a few weeks of monitoring.
Once you seen what your system is doing, you'll get into a routine. And once you get in the routine, you can extend your water testing to every other week.

Note: Typically, water temperature changes require output setting changes too. Summer requires more chlorine, therefore a higher output setting. Winter time requires a lower output setting. The way you find out what the setting is for summer and winter is by testing and adjusting.

If you have any other questions...ask away. I'm sure someone will be able to help you.

[Phillbo]

Great info .. thanks.