Upgrade recommendations for replacing 14" Intex sand filter combo?

[Pappy]

The price isn't too much different, so I probably will. They recommend the black pipe, instead of white, if it will be exposed to the sun. It can be painted or wrapped (guess who sells wrap tape) to protect it from UV energy.

The pump came in today. Looks like an open box return, rather than "used: like new". There is no sign that it has ever been wired or plumbed. I'm going to post pictures showing the difference in the Intex .75 hp rated pump/motor and the Pentair .75 hp rated pump/motor. The Intex is rated at 120 V - 4.8 A MAX. The Pentair is rated at 120 V 4.7 A - - - on LOW. 14.6 A full load.

[PoolDoc]

Do you have an amp meter? Can you check amps on both the Intex and the Hayward?

Can you use one of these: P3 P4400 Kill A Watt Monitor ?

[Pappy]

You wouldn't by chance think that the label on the motor might be incorrect??? I do have an ammeter, but it's really a milliamp meter. I wonder how well the Kill a Watt tolerates being operated at or near max load. The Pentair is very close to the max rating when it's at full load. That would be an interesting bit of info. I wouldn't be scared to close the return valve completely on the Intex pump, because it only makes about 14 or 15 psi deadheaded (according to the Intex supplied pressure gauge).

[PoolDoc]

I think I totally don't trust the engineering and efficiency data supplied . . . well, by anybody.

Years ago, I had made the acquaintance of the then PacFab's chief engineer, and through him, several junior working engineers. Occasionally, I could call and get the 'back-story'. Even then, before it became Pentair, it was a marketing driven company. And, the gap between what was supposed to be true, and what was true was significant.

Hayward has always been opaque, at least to me. But the mere fact that the Hayward chlorinator -- this beast:

is still sold, is evidence that Hayward can't be trusted.

That chlorinator has not worked right since it was first designed and sold, over 35 years ago. The main port is a HORRIBLE flow restriction, and is so small it literally will not pass a US quarter. And the feed rate control NEVER works right, even out of the box. They know that. But they still sell it.

So yes, I'd love to have other data.

[Pappy]

I am able to plug the pool and disconnect the hose. As for the meter, if there is power factor correction feature, I'm not aware of how to access or activate it.

[PoolDoc]

Just looked; the meter info on Amazon claims it ONLY reads true power, not VA.

However, if it is reading true power, the reading for watts should be lower than the V x A number.

[Pappy]

This is a pic of the meter plugged into a space heater rated at 1500 watts. The limited instructions that came with it say "Voltage, current, active power, energy".



And I just happen to be storing some plastic 15 gallon beer fermenters for an associate. Do I really need a trash bag? I presume I run the pump into a container for 15 seconds, then weigh the water, multiply by 4 and divide by 8.34 to get the GPM?

[PoolDoc]

Do I really need a trash bag? I presume I run the pump into a container for 15 seconds, then weigh the water, multiply by 4 and divide by 8.34 to get the GPM?

I was assuming you had a submerged inlet. If you are able to plug the pool and disconnect the pump effluent, so you can discharge directly into your tank, you can get the measurement as you say.

Regarding the meter, with resistance elements VxA = true watts, but with inductive elements (motor windings), true watts are usually less than V x A due to power factor.