Upgrade recommendations for replacing 14" Intex sand filter combo?

[Pappy]

What is the best way to connect the hard piping to the pool wall fittings? Since the walls flex and move a considerable distance, there needs to be a flexible connection. I think 1-1/2" reinforced vinyl tubing is what I need, but I'm not sure.

Would this work? https://www.lowes.com/pd/EASTMAN-1-1...ose/1000365073

[PoolDoc]

I'd look at this:
1.5" ID 70 psi Braided Flexible Chemical Resistant PVC Tubing
instead.

Flex PVC, like you found at Lowes varies a lot in quality, and I have never discovered how to tell the good stuff (rare) from the junk (common). The typical stuff, which I've purchased from SCP wholesale supply, gets pinholes after a year or so.

The reinforced flex is made for insert fittings and clamps, but can be glued if you are very careful. It tends to not maintain a perfectly round cross-section, so you have to be careful when you insert it.

Maybe you and Brokk can work out a 'works-for-everybody' method of plumbing to Intex-type pools?

[Pappy]

1.5" ID 70 psi Braided Flexible Chemical Resistant PVC Tubing

Is exactly what I had in mind. I was unaware that it could successfully be glued. That's why I asked about the other stuff. Is it glued to a pvc hose barb or into a standard pvc slip fitting?

'works-for-everybody' method of plumbing to Intex-type pools?

,,, probably doesn't exist, but 'works-for handyfolk' is completely do-able. I full well intend to take lots of pictures and explain my processes and the thoughts behind them.

[PoolDoc]

If you put it on a barbed fitting, use clamps.

If you glue it, just make sure that it fits in snugly and that you hold it in place for 90 seconds or more. Otherwise it will 'ooch' out. Also, a small bit before depending on it. I've glued it, but formulations vary and you want to make sure the tube YOU get will glue OK.

[swimdaddy]

I have an "intex type" pool, a Splash super pool.

I have used the flex PVC that Pappy posted and it has worked well for 3 years without leaks...... yet. I'll watch for pinholes. I used barbed fittings with clamps and quick connect fittings everywhere I can think of (once you push the barbed fitting into the flex PVC, you'll never get it out again), they make it easy to take things apart for servicing or storage. I also use ball valves that come apart for servicing and use them as quick connections too.

Ever fitting and line I have used has come from Lowe's, except for the wall fittings. No leaks, no issues.

[PoolDoc]

The fact that it was OK in the past, is no guarantee it will be now.

Lowes does not stick to a reliable or single source of product. And even brands you might think are OK, are not. I have a "Watts brand" 3/4" x 4" brass threaded nipple,t hat should have lasted 100 years. But Watts has gone from being a US company to a little US stuff and a lot of Chinese stuff. The nipple has a pinhole in the body, between the threads. Naturally, I had put it underground when I replaced my fathers pressure reducing valve . . . so it was a huge mess to repair.

Some Chinese made product is OK, but most of it suffers high rates of defects. That means 90% is OK, but if you are the 1 in 10 that gets the P. o. S., watch out!

[Pappy]

Perhaps I can make an inner ferrule to help hold it round, similar to the insert in air brake compression fittings. I'd rather use the clear pvc if the quality is as good or better.

[Pappy]

The price isn't too much different, so I probably will. They recommend the black pipe, instead of white, if it will be exposed to the sun. It can be painted or wrapped (guess who sells wrap tape) to protect it from UV energy.

The pump came in today. Looks like an open box return, rather than "used: like new". There is no sign that it has ever been wired or plumbed. I'm going to post pictures showing the difference in the Intex .75 hp rated pump/motor and the Pentair .75 hp rated pump/motor. The Intex is rated at 120 V - 4.8 A MAX. The Pentair is rated at 120 V 4.7 A - - - on LOW. 14.6 A full load.

[PoolDoc]

Do you have an amp meter? Can you check amps on both the Intex and the Hayward?

Can you use one of these: P3 P4400 Kill A Watt Monitor ?

[Pappy]

You wouldn't by chance think that the label on the motor might be incorrect??? I do have an ammeter, but it's really a milliamp meter. I wonder how well the Kill a Watt tolerates being operated at or near max load. The Pentair is very close to the max rating when it's at full load. That would be an interesting bit of info. I wouldn't be scared to close the return valve completely on the Intex pump, because it only makes about 14 or 15 psi deadheaded (according to the Intex supplied pressure gauge).