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Thread: First 234s test results and warning about pool stores' results

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    SoCalBoo is offline Registered+ Thread Analyst SoCalBoo 0
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    Default First 234s test results and warning about pool stores' results

    Got the complete kit yesterday, with salt water. Here are the results:

    TC 1
    FC 1
    Ph 7.4
    Alk 80
    Cal 480
    CYA 0
    Salt 2800-3000
    (Did I miss anything?)

    Inground gunite/plaster pool, 22,500 freeform, with 7 foot diameter spa. Pentair 1.5hp pool pump, pentair 2hp spa pump, poolpilot digital swg, pentair DG filter and minimax NT heater. Solar.

    About 2 months ago, took water to pool store for testing. They wouldn't test my CYA levels. Told me since I had TC/FC of 4-5 at time, no problem with CYA. They were dead wrong. My problems with Algae and holding chlorine in pool appear to be explained. Darn pool store dummies!

    Anyways, I have been having problems with rising Ph. My pool naturally aerates acid when added (returns create some decent surface movement), so Alk has been shooting down as well. I try to keep my alk around 100. If I miss, it is only down to 90, or 80 at worst.

    I have added 4 lbs of baking soda since test. I add acid just about every day to keep Ph in 7.2 to 7.4 range.

    Obviously will be adding CYA, slowly and patiently. To get to 50 CYA, which seems to be about ideal for my SWG pool, looks like I will need 9 lbs of CYA. Figured I would add in three applications over the next 3 weeks or so. Is this appropriate?

    Also think that I would be good to get my salt up to 3100-3200 level because I have some pretty rambucious little ones at home who splash a lot of water out of the pool and need to buffer up for that. BleachCalc salt says 37-45 lbs would do it. It this okay?

    What should I do about calcium level? Seems to be high according to my poolpilot manual (200-400 is their recommended level). The logical thing to me would be to test the fill water and see if there is a big difference. I do know that our water around here (San Diego) is pretty 'hard'. Is this likely to cause high Cal. level in fill water? I have a water softener for the house (which is NOT connected to the fill water). Can I use this water if the Cal. level is lower than the non-treated fill water to fill/dilute pool, or are their contaminates in softened water that I need to watch out for?

    Thanks for the help. I love this site. You guys coached me through a nasty mustard bloom a few months back, and the advice was right on. The only question was why I was having problems keeping chlorine in the pool. Seems the lack of CYA is probably the answer.

  2. #2
    CarlD's Avatar
    CarlD is offline SuperMod Emeritus Vortex Adjuster CarlD 4 stars CarlD 4 stars CarlD 4 stars CarlD 4 stars CarlD 4 stars CarlD 4 stars
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    Default Re: First 234s test results and warning about pool stores' results

    Concrete and SWGs both tend to raise pH so adding acid is normal.

    To lower CH, you need to drain and refill with low CH water. I don't know how else to lower it.
    Carl

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