Very Green Cloudy Pool

[Robin N]

We have moved into our house that has a pool - the previous owners were only using bleach pucks and only tested the water at the beginning of each season (at a pool store) and used bleach pucks the rest of the season. We decided to use pool forum methods and started adjust the pH, Cl and Alkalinity levels. The pool was cloudy blue for about a week and now we've got a very cloudy green pool. With brown on some of the floor. We've ordered the PS 234 Kit, but it's not here yet. We're using the OTO kit that was here with the pool stuff. I'm estimating from the test kit that my Cl level is at 12 ppm. We've shocked it, scrubbed it, backwashed it, and ran the robot vacuum and it's been 3 days and we're still green. I see another vacuum type head out there, I'm going to try and figure it out today. What else can I do while I wait on the PS 234? I'm not seeing any progress.

[JohnT]

What kind of pool? Post a full set of test numbers, from a pool store if you have to go that route.

If it turned green again after you got it blue, you either let the chlorine drop or have copper in the water. To defeat algae, you have to add chlorine several times a day in many cases. You have to test, and test accurately to know how much to add.

While waiting on good numbers, maintain your chlorine level and filter 24/7. Brush the pool daily, and vacuum to waste if possible.

[Robin N]

My pool is a 25,000 gallon pool with a vinyl liner. My numbers last night were Cl 12, Ph 7.6, Alkalinity 240. I added another gallon of bleach last night and tested this morning and the Cl was 12 so I added another gallon of bleach early this morning to try to raise it up to 15. I just took another reading of the Cl and it is at 15 now.

[ivyleager]

If all the previous owners used were chlorine pucks, you may have a high CYA level, which means you may be needing to shock @ chlorine levels higher than 15.

If you have a pool store nearby, let them test your water, but don't let then talk you into buying anything. However, if you have a high copper level, you will need a metal sequestrant. That you should get while you are there.

Good luck,

CaryB
Go 'Canes!!

[Robin N]

Thanks for all the help. I do have well water, so I'm thinking I might have metals now, since I'm keeping the Chlorine around 15, vacuuming to waste, scrubbing, backwashing and I'm still not seeing any results. I did adjust the CYA about 4 days ago.

I'll take a water sample to a pool store tomorrow and see what they come up with on the metals. Hopefully I can get this straightened out soon.

Robin

[CarlD]

Robin,
Yes, get it tested and plan on getting your own good test kit.

Guessing at problems and then throwing in chemicals is the second fastest way to get into pool trouble. The first, of course, is pure neglect.

Also, I believe in the Occam's Razor method (the simplest solution is the solution), very similar to the K.I.S.S. method. Start at the beginning: Chlorine, pH, Total Alk, CYA and Calcium levels. Don't go on to metals until those are fixed (well, calcium IS actually a metal, but we never see it as one, just as a salt. Throw calcium metal in water and it boils, which is better than sodium metal, which blows up!)

[Robin N]

I added a gallon of bleach last night to make sure the Cl level stayed high. This morning I tested at 6:30 am. My Cl was at 12 so I added 2 more gallons of bleach hoping to keep the Cl up. My pH was 8.0, and the chart on my Mark IV Test Kit reads that I need to add 6 1/4 pints of Muratic Acid. From what I've read on this site I should focus on the Cl first and get it under control first. I'll buy more Muratic Acid at the pool store today but I'm not sure on when I should add it; I did read that I should add no more than 1 pint per 10,000 gallons in one day. My Alkalinity was 240.

Also I read on Ben's post that most kits with my order # should ship Monday. I'll feel a lot more confident then.

I'll retest my Cl level at 7:30 am, take the fresh water sample to the pool store and post my results when I return. I'm assuming ALL I should need at the pool store is Muratic Acid and possibly the metal sequesterant.

Robin N
25,000 gallon pool with vinyl liner

[CarlD]

Before you test your pH, add two drops of chlorine neutralizer, thiosulfate (taylor R-0007) to be sure you're getting an accurate reading, otherwise that pH number may not be right. IF 8.0 is right, you need to bring pH down. Just getting it down to 7.5 will increase chlorine effectiveness immensely and shorten your job.

You can use muriatic acid or dry acid, but you do need to get it down, assuming the number is right.

[Robin N]

I retested the pH, adding the 2 drops of Chlorine Neutralizer first and I still got an 8.0 reading - my current test only goes up to 8, and it was a "heavy" 8 reading. Is it possible to dilute this test with 2 parts distilled water and multilply by 3, as with the Chlorine test?

[gonefishin]

I did adjust the CYA about 4 days ago.


Robin

What was the CYA level before you adjusted it?

What is the CYA level after you adjusted it?

How did you adjust the CYA level?


dan