Eric, I re-read the thread and noticed you've not posted any CYA values for your pool. I'd really stress getting this tested ASAP. When you have that number, you can use the best guess chart to know where your FC should be:

Stabilizer . . . . . . Min. FC . . . . Max FC . . . 'Shock' FC
=> 0 ppm . . . . . . . 1 ppm . . . . . 3 ppm . . . . 10 ppm
=> 10 - 20 ppm . . . . 2 ppm . . . . . 5 ppm . . . . 12 ppm
=> 30 - 50 ppm . . . . 3 ppm . . . . . 6 ppm . . . . 15 ppm
=> 60 - 90 ppm . . . . 5 ppm . . . . . 10 ppm . . .. 20 ppm
=> 100 - 200 ppm . . . 8 ppm . . . . . 15 ppm . . .. 25 ppm

You sound a little frustrated at this point. I was in a very similar situation several months ago so I'll add my .02 cents worth below....remember, POP (Pool Owner Patience) is the best thing you can add right now

If you find your FC is low according to your CYA, I'd use bleach to get the FC where it needs to be ASAP. This will stave off any potential algae problems. It will take several days for the SWC to get to a stable FC residual, especially if you're fighting a Chlorine demand.

Balance your water according to the advice on this forum (pH 7.2-7.6, TA 80-150, etc.) This will help keeps things under control while your SWC does its job.

Do you have the manual for the Autopilot? If not, you can find it on their website. I'd re-read it again just for fun.

In the meantime, crack open a coldie, and take a dip if your water's warm enough!