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  1. #1
    CarlD's Avatar
    CarlD is offline SuperMod Emeritus Vortex Adjuster CarlD 4 stars CarlD 4 stars CarlD 4 stars CarlD 4 stars CarlD 4 stars CarlD 4 stars
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    10,000 gallons is the EASIEST pool capacity for calculating how much bleach or liquid chlorine to add!

    To each 10,000 gallons of water:

    1 gallon of regular bleach (5.25%) adds 5.25ppm of free chlorine (FC)

    1 gallon of Ultra bleach/Liquid Chlorine (6%) adds 6ppm of FC

    1 gallon of Liquid shock (12%) adds 12ppm of FC.


    etc....
    Got it? Really easy!
    Carl

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    Sherra is offline Lifetime Member Weir Watcher Sherra 0
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    Stabilizer (all in PPM)... Min. FC ... Max FC ... Shock FC
    0 ............................1 ..............3 ...............10
    10-20 ......................2 ..............5 ...............12
    30-50 ......................3 ..............6 ...............15
    60-90 ......................5 .............10 ...............20
    100-200 ...................8 .............15 ...............25

    Sherra
    Kershaw County South Carolina
    18x34 IG 2' radius rectangle vinyl liner (approx 27,500 gal) 1 1/2" pipes installed March 2006
    (previous AG pool owner)

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    Thanks for all the info, everyone. I'm wondering how the CYA figured in with the regimen we've followed for the past 10 years. We have been using BioGuard's 3-step chemical program since the pool was built. This consists of 1)"SmartSticks" chlorine; 2) "Burnout" shock and 3) "Back-Up" algicide. None of these products list CYA as an ingredient, so maybe they use a different stabilizer?? Ack! I'm so corn-fused! We have a pool store test kit that does 5 or 6 drop tests but as far as I can tell CYA isn't one of them. Another $40 down the drain. Are there other types of stabilizer besides CYA? Will a pool-store test tell CYA results? I'll have to order the test kit from Pool Solutions asap.

    Except for the trips to the pool store over the years, we have had fairly good results with the BioGuard treatment. Since our pool is small the chemicals don't really cost a lot. Unfortunately last year they changed the formula for the "Burnout" and it doesn't dissolve very well. In fact, it just lies in the bottom of the pool for a few days looking grainy and aggravating, after it has clogged the DE filter and raised the pump pressure 6 or 7 pounds until it finally dissolves. This poor performance is what made me start looking around for a better solution and here I am. Pouring liquid bleach into the system will be a huge improvement over the granulated Burnout.
    Last edited by TX Daisy; 04-05-2006 at 08:53 PM.

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    waterbear's Avatar
    waterbear is offline Lifetime Member Sniggle Mechanic waterbear 4 stars waterbear 4 stars waterbear 4 stars waterbear 4 stars
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    If I am not mistaken the bioguard smartstix are trichlor which is a stabilized chlorine compound. That means the CYA is in it already. It also means that they have a very low pH and that you have no control of the amount of CYA in your pool. CYA levels will continue to build until one day you find that algae has taken over even though you FC levels seem fine. All the more reason to get a test kit and check your levels!. This wil tell you at what level you need to run your FC based on the level of CYA that is in your pool. The burn out is Lithium Hypoclorite which is a non stablized chlorine and also probably the most expensive non stablized chlorine that you can buy. It's main advantage is that it won't raise your calcium hardness which is a good thing if your water is balanced. If your water is balanced and and your chlorine levels are correct there should be no need for algecide. I was just on the bioguard website and with their "3-step programs" they make no mention of balancing the water or adjusting pH. Those are important ommisions! They also suggest adding their "optimizer" to the water to help prevent algae and control pH. Guess what that puts into your water? Borates! Yes good old 20 mule team---just like most of the folks on here already use for pH control!
    Last edited by waterbear; 04-05-2006 at 09:07 PM.

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    So you're saying that the SmartSticks, being non-stabilized, don't have CYA? Can the pool store test for CYA until I get the kit from this site?

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    waterbear's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TX Daisy
    So you're saying that the SmartSticks, being non-stabilized, don't have CYA? Can the pool store test for CYA until I get the kit from this site?
    No I'm saying that according to the info I found on the net they are trichlor which is stablized chlorine. You need to get a test kit and put your numbers up here so people can advise you.

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    aylad's Avatar
    aylad is offline SuperMod Emeritus Burfle Ringer aylad 4 stars aylad 4 stars aylad 4 stars aylad 4 stars aylad 4 stars aylad 4 stars
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    Look at the ingredients for the "Smart Sticks". If the main ingredient is trichlor or dichlor, then they do indeed contain CYA. And if you've been using them for that long, I'm willing to bet that your CYA levels are plenty high. A pool store should test CYA for you, although the results are going to be a ball-park figure at best. At least that would give you your starting point. What is the main ingredient in the shock?

    Janet

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    waterbear's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by aylad
    Look at the ingredients for the "Smart Sticks". If the main ingredient is trichlor or dichlor, then they do indeed contain CYA. And if you've been using them for that long, I'm willing to bet that your CYA levels are plenty high. A pool store should test CYA for you, although the results are going to be a ball-park figure at best. At least that would give you your starting point. What is the main ingredient in the shock?

    Janet
    Burnout 35 is lithium shock.

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