Information, please?

[TX Daisy]

Hi, I just found this forum and looks like there's lots of good info here. I have a small IG gunite pool (10k gal), chlorine with a DE filter. I'm quite interested in the techniques posted here about pool care and maintenance. Our pool is 10 years old and in good condition, but since it was built we have used chemicals and products from the local pool store. I'm really interested in learning about using household bleach, baking soda, etc. to maintain our pool. Here in southeast TX we can expect a summertime battle with mustard and other exciting algae! Is there a section on this site where the recommended steps for pool maintenance using bleach, etc. is spelled out? Thanks very much for your help.

[waterbear]

It is all basically spelled out on the sister website http://www.poolsolutions.com Scroll down to the bottom and click on the Sitemap. If you then go through all the free links (some are subscriber only) they will basically tell you everything you need to know and do. You DO need a good, drop based test kit (preferably with the FAS-DPD chlorine titration test) such as the kit that is sold on the poolsolutions website or Taylor's K-2005 (No FAS-DPD) or K-2006 (FAS-DPD). The kit sold on the pool solutions website is a better value for the money because the Taylor kits only come with 3/4 oz. bottles of reagents and for some of the tests that is JUST not enough!
Test your water, post your numbers, and you will find that there is tons of help to be found here!
Also, people here are very good about answering questions on just about any pool related subject!
I am a relatively new pool owner but I have had a spa for many years and I can tell you this site has not only taught me a lot, it has saved me money and even helped resolve some issues I was having with my pool builder!

[TX Daisy]

Thanks Waterbear! I have a lot of reading to do. I'm still confused about the "CYA"...exactly what it means and how it is maintained. I appreciate your response.

[waterbear]

CYA is what is commonly called "stabilizer" or "conditioner" at the pool store and is one of the items you will need to buy from them (unless you have been using dichlor or trichlor (stablized chlorine), then it is possible that your levels are ok or even too high( means you have to run you FC at a higher level is all).
It helps keep the chlorine from degrading in sunlight in an outdoor pool. It's bad side is that the higher the level of CYA the higher you need to run your FC so your water stays sanitiezed and doesn't turn green! (It actually combines with the chlorine in the pool so it becomes less reactive as an oxidizer if I undestand it correctly) If you are not using a SWG most people run it around 30 -50 ppm. With a SWG most manufacturers recommend between 60-80 ppm. Before the big crash their used to be a table on here of what to run your FC and and what levels to shock for various levels of CYA. Perhaps one of these day Ben will get around to reposting it for those of us who never saved a copy

First thing you need to do is get a 5 way test kit that is drop based such as Ben's (best value for the money), Taylor K-2005 (good), K-2006 (Better but Ben's is still a better value for what you get), or even the $15 kit 5 way drop kit from Walmart (to hold you over until Ben's kit arrives in the mail!) (If you think I am pushing Ben's kit let me refer you to this thread

http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthread.php?t=151

and let me say that I have kept salt water aquariums for over 30 years now and have had quite a bit of experience with water testing using reagents, strips and electronic equipment--SO GET BEN"S KIT ALREADY! It's worth every penny!)
Second, post a full set of readings on here. These would be:
FC (free chlorine using the FAS-DPD titration test)
TC (total chlorine using the FAS-DPD titration test or the OTO test, first way is more accurate, second easier)
TA (total alkalinity)
CH (calcium hardness)
pH (what else?--pH)
CYA (and this is one of the places Ben's kit really shines--you get 10 oz of reagent. Taylor only give you 3/4 oz which is only good for about 5 tests)

Once you post your numbers you will find that the moderators and other friendly folk on here will be beating down the door to anwer you post and give you the guidance and encouragement you need to REALLY learn how to keep your pool clean, healthy and happy!

[rdietman]

cya or cyanuric acid is the only chemical you will have to buy at a pool specific store. in short it is a stabilizer that keeps the sun from eating up your chlorine. if you have no cya levels then your chlorine will be gone very quickly. the cya acts as little umbrellas shielding your chlorine from the suns rays. when the sanitizer is needed it is there. but too much cya and you need to keep your chlorine levels higher also. cya should be about 30- 40. if im off base here a little i will be corrected but just trying to give you a little info on cya as i understand it.

[Watermom]

You may be able to buy cya at Walmart or Lowe's in addition to the pool store. Sometimes it is labeled as Stabilizer or Conditioner. Just check the ingredients. If it says cyanuric acid or isocyanuric acid, it is the right stuff.

Watermom

[waterbear]

Both Walmart and Lowe's carry it here in N. Fl.

[CarlD]

10,000 gallons is the EASIEST pool capacity for calculating how much bleach or liquid chlorine to add!

To each 10,000 gallons of water:

1 gallon of regular bleach (5.25%) adds 5.25ppm of free chlorine (FC)

1 gallon of Ultra bleach/Liquid Chlorine (6%) adds 6ppm of FC

1 gallon of Liquid shock (12%) adds 12ppm of FC.


etc....
Got it? Really easy!

[Sherra]

Stabilizer (all in PPM)... Min. FC ... Max FC ... Shock FC
0 ............................1 ..............3 ...............10
10-20 ......................2 ..............5 ...............12
30-50 ......................3 ..............6 ...............15
60-90 ......................5 .............10 ...............20
100-200 ...................8 .............15 ...............25

[TX Daisy]

Thanks for all the info, everyone. I'm wondering how the CYA figured in with the regimen we've followed for the past 10 years. We have been using BioGuard's 3-step chemical program since the pool was built. This consists of 1)"SmartSticks" chlorine; 2) "Burnout" shock and 3) "Back-Up" algicide. None of these products list CYA as an ingredient, so maybe they use a different stabilizer?? Ack! I'm so corn-fused! We have a pool store test kit that does 5 or 6 drop tests but as far as I can tell CYA isn't one of them. Another $40 down the drain. Are there other types of stabilizer besides CYA? Will a pool-store test tell CYA results? I'll have to order the test kit from Pool Solutions asap.

Except for the trips to the pool store over the years, we have had fairly good results with the BioGuard treatment. Since our pool is small the chemicals don't really cost a lot. Unfortunately last year they changed the formula for the "Burnout" and it doesn't dissolve very well. In fact, it just lies in the bottom of the pool for a few days looking grainy and aggravating, after it has clogged the DE filter and raised the pump pressure 6 or 7 pounds until it finally dissolves. This poor performance is what made me start looking around for a better solution and here I am. Pouring liquid bleach into the system will be a huge improvement over the granulated Burnout.