Quote Originally Posted by medvampire
Hi all
First of all let me say thanks for all the good information and dictation of mods and users here in the forum.
I have been lurking for the past few weeks learning all I can and am starting to feel more confident about the pool chem thing.
I still have a few questions but I will post my numbers first.

Free Ch 3 (DPD method)
Total CH 3 (OTO method)
TH 250-260
ALK 160-170
CYA 20-30
PH 7.6

I am not new to testing being a med tech for 12 years but I am new to pool testing. Let me say I am anal retentive about accuracy and precision in testing. I am using off the shelf test methods for now. I will have to wait until next year to convince my future wife to let me spring for one of Ben’s test kits she thinks I have spent enough of testing right now. I have one of the Wal-Mart 5 way test, Aquachem test strips, and DPD tablet method. The pool is 24’ above ground 52” walls so I compute around 13000 to 14000 gallons. I have a 2 hp pump and 22 in sand filter.

1. Just how accurate do I need to be? The CH color standards are not very good.

Accurate enough so your pool stays sanitary. I'm not being glib. Your FC (free chlorine) level depends on your CYA level--see the Best Guess table. Your CC level (combined chloramines) should be 0. TC (total Chlorine) = FC + TC.

2. I have my oldest do a strip test before I let them get in during the day because I work nights and am snoozing. Are they good enough to use for them to get a guess before getting in the pool?

I think they are FINE for that. If the chlorine tab is white, it either has little or no chlorine or has bleached out the tab. In either case, they shouldn't go it the water. Be VERY careful the oldest understands how to run the test correctly. The LaMotte strip is a 2 second dip and instant read. The AquaChek is a 2 second dip, and a 15 second wait to read. Ignore the other tests on the strips. They are very difficult to read correctly, if at all.

3. Is there a better method for CYA than the turbidity method?

Probably. But why bother?

4. Does oxygen shock (what can I say I got pool stored before I found this site) affect the CH test?

As I'm an advocate TOTALLY of bleach for chlorination, I would never use an oxygen shock. I presume you aren't using a bacquacil pool.

5. When is the best time of day for me to test?

I'll go against the mainstream: late in the day or early evening. That way, if you need to add chlorine, the UV from the sun won't break it down. There's no point to testing if you aren't going to act (add chlorine, adjust pH, etc) after the test. Saying that, I generally test in the morning because that's when I have time. Testing ANYTIME is better than not testing.

6. Will the ALK slowly come down over time by adding acid to keep the PH down to 7.4 or do I need to go ahead and do the low PH and aeration procedure?

You have a vinyl pool. Alk levels up to 180ppm are PERFECTLY fine in vinyl and shouldn't be messed with. You can even go as high as 200 without having to take action. But the Alkalinity forum has directions on lowering alk.

7. Will I ever get my life back and get less anal about the chem. in the pool?

Check my sig line!

I have a few more questions but I will post in the correct topics.
Thanks in advance
Steve
I agree your pump sounds WAY too big for your filter and pool. It burns electric and makes your life harder to keep your water clear.

Ben's kit, or its equivalents--the Taylor 2006 and Chlorine FAS-DPD Service Kit from Leslie's--will pay for themselves in the first year alone. They will continue to pay for themselves year after year after year. IMHO, not to have a kit at this level is penny-wise and pound-foolish. I bought my PS-232 when I had a 3,700 gallon 15' round Intex Donut and was SHOCKED by what I learned from it--and the problems it solved and prevented. Even then it was worth every penny.