So sad, a leak in my just finished pool ...???

[ValAZ]

18x35 foot diver - built it myself

Started up the pool Saturday night after it filled, and this afternoon I had 4 tiny squirts in one area coming from between the top of the tile and the deck. It's in the return line. I'm assuming I *just* have that section of concrete jacked out and fix the pipes?

I'm wondering when this might have happened, and have a question. After the shotcrete was done the workers cut the pipes. Is this usual for the shotcrete sub to do? I wasn't expecting them to do it, thought the cleanup crew did it at the end, but having no experience, I didn't question it. I'm wondering if they might have damaged the pipes and cut them to cover it? I'm hoping not - that would be mean.

I'm thinking this is where the GC ends up eating some profit - and that I'll just have to pay the deck sub and plumber to fix this, and that no warranty will cover this. Does that sound right?

My last question is this: If I run the pump with everything open - waterfall, bubbler, aerator and returns - the leak is just a couple of spots dripping. Until I get this fixed, do I run the pump like this to keep the pool clean, or am I risking further damage to tile or new plaster by doing so?

Valerie

[KurtV]

I had such a leak in the pool we just had completed in December. I believe that the GC made the deck sub pay for the leak detection and plumbing work as he apparently drove a frame stake through the return pipe (they were able to tunnel under the deck to get to the leak).

[ValAZ]

How soon did they get it fixed from the time it started, and did you run it till they did? I shocked it to be sure chlorine was high enough, and hope to get by running it as little as possible. I'd hate to lose it, but am not sure if it is ok to be running it with a leak.

[MarkC]

If you can shut off the flow to that return you should be OK until you get it fixed. You can isolate the problem by shutting off the valve to that return and putting a rubber stopper in the return line like what you do during winterizing so that water pressure from being below the water level at that return does not force your pool water through the leaking area.

[ValAZ]

I have a looped return system, so I can't turn off that specific return ... and I'm not sure I can even turn off the returns at all. I have valves for everything else, skimmers, aerator, bubbler and foundtain, but not for the returns. I must have been given the "plumbing for dummies" set up? If she can't turn it off, she can't break it?

[KurtV]

Val, Mine was a huge leak in a 2 in. return line so no, I could not run the pool. It took about three weeks to get the leak detection people out as they were booked pretty solid. It took another couple of weeks to get the leak repaired.

I was able to temporarily reroute my negative edge plumbing through the filter so I was at least getting filtering in the interim.

[ValAZ]

How do I fix this? The plumber "can't get out till next Wednesday, maybe Friday" - and after going out and chipping away at the gunite near the pipes, I think I might be able to do this. Trouble is, I'm not sure what's the best fix. Using couplings and just putting in a new section? The workspace is tight, I might be able to do that....

any ideas?

Val

[stever13]

How do I fix this? The plumber "can't get out till next Wednesday, maybe Friday" - and after going out and chipping away at the gunite near the pipes, I think I might be able to do this. Trouble is, I'm not sure what's the best fix. Using couplings and just putting in a new section? The workspace is tight, I might be able to do that....

any ideas?

Val

Cut out the bad section with a hacksaw. Two couplings and straight piece in the middle. That is all there is to it. I don't know if you got my PM but I would be willing to have a look and give you a hand if you want. Send me an e-mail if interested. steverwrx@hotmail.com owner/builder in Phoenix

[waste]

Cut out the bad section with a hacksaw. Two couplings and straight piece in the middle. That is all there is to it. I don't know if you got my PM but I would be willing to have a look and give you a hand if you want. Send me an e-mail if interested. steverwrx@hotmail.com owner/builder in Phoenix

I know that 2 couplings and a peice of pipe could fix it, but... how would you get the pipe into the second coupling? When dealing with a 'fixed' ridged pipe, you don't have the room for the 1&1/4" slip fitting. 'No hub couplings' -A/K/A Fernco's- would work, but I usually use 4 90's, do you have a better way? ( If you could tell me it, it would be a real help) - Thanx

[stever13]

I know that 2 couplings and a peice of pipe could fix it, but... how would you get the pipe into the second coupling? When dealing with a 'fixed' ridged pipe, you don't have the room for the 1&1/4" slip fitting. 'No hub couplings' -A/K/A Fernco's- would work, but I usually use 4 90's, do you have a better way? ( If you could tell me it, it would be a real help) - Thanx

Cut your replacement pipe about 1/8" shorter than the pipe your cut out. Use a SLOW set pvc cement. Apply liberally onto all pipes and slip fitting couplers. Place couplers on both ends of replacement pipe and slip into place and then move couplers to the desired spots. The trick is the slow set pvc. Hardens in minutes instead of seconds. I am no professional. But this technique has worked for me.