Have you tested your full water, especially for CH?
Also, have you added CYA?
Boo on the ozinator...
I have a midnight blue, 10,000 gallon, gunite pool that is 2 years old. It's had turned completely white or maybe I should say whiteish gray from calcium buildup. I drained it, acid washed it an refilled it. I'm taking this opportunity to use the knowledge that I've learned on this forum. I've removed the tablets from the chlorinator and I'm not planning to use any pool store chemicals if I can help it. The pool has an ozonator and I know many of you on this site don't like those but in my experience it works great. I'm able to keep my chlorine levels incredibly low and keep crystal clear water. From now until swim season I'm mainly concerned with keeping my calcium levels good so that I don't start getting build-up again. I'm also keeping my acidity high to help with that. My question is what is a good calcium level and how should I accomplish that? My initial water test 24 hours after filling the pool came back as follows. (since the chlorine was non-existent I added two gallons of publix brand outdoor bleach after taking this sample)
CH-100
PH-8
CYA-0
TA-50
FC-0
Have you tested your full water, especially for CH?
Also, have you added CYA?
Boo on the ozinator...
26K gal 20x40 rectangular IG vinyl pool; Apr 2014: New pump, liner, auto-cover, & water; Pentair Whisperflo 1HP pump; Pentair Trition sand filter; Cover/Star CS-500 auto cover; Taylor K-2006C; OTO
I did not test the fill water. Should I?
I have not added anything other than some bleach. I didn't want to do ANYTHING without consulting you experts first.
I really don't know why you guys hate ozonators so much. I've read all the posts on this about them but my experience with it has been nothing short of fantastic. Over the winter I let my pool sit for months trying to see how long it would stay clear with no chemicals (other than the chlorine tabs) and the ozantor and it stayed perfectly clear the entire winter. I suspect it would have done the same even without the tablets.
You want your CH to be somewhere around 250-300. If your fill water is high in CH, you should aim for the lower figure as topping off your water level will increase your CH.
Did you add CYA yet?
26K gal 20x40 rectangular IG vinyl pool; Apr 2014: New pump, liner, auto-cover, & water; Pentair Whisperflo 1HP pump; Pentair Trition sand filter; Cover/Star CS-500 auto cover; Taylor K-2006C; OTO
You want to use calcium chloride or calcium chloride dihydrate. Other products can affect pH and TA.
26K gal 20x40 rectangular IG vinyl pool; Apr 2014: New pump, liner, auto-cover, & water; Pentair Whisperflo 1HP pump; Pentair Trition sand filter; Cover/Star CS-500 auto cover; Taylor K-2006C; OTO
I have to assume since my pool is currently at CH-100 that must be the fill water level. I'll test it today to confirm. What is the recommended way to increase CH? I have not added CYA yet. Didn't want to add anything until coming here for advice on how to do it right.
From the pool store?
Are you testing with your own kit or using the poolstore? Here it is recommended you get a Taylor K2006C and test yourself. If you don't have it, order it on Amazon and in the meantime get yourself an HTH 6-way kit from walmart and use that until it comes.
I'm testing it myself. I have a Taylor test kit. I've been using that for 1 year now.
Yes, you can get it at a pool store. Many people cheap-out and get ice-melt and other types but they can contain other metals that you do NOT want in your pool. I would go with a product made specifically for pools if it was my pool. I would start with 8 pounds or so and see where it takes you.
26K gal 20x40 rectangular IG vinyl pool; Apr 2014: New pump, liner, auto-cover, & water; Pentair Whisperflo 1HP pump; Pentair Trition sand filter; Cover/Star CS-500 auto cover; Taylor K-2006C; OTO
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