filter/pump problems - pool newbie

[ryanm]

How do I know what "normal" pressure is? So far in my experience it's either been REALLY low (like non existent) or it's around 20psi. I know the max psi of the filter is 50. If my filter elements were messed up (damaged) how would I know?

thanks

[Bleach=Chlorine?]

If you had damaged filter fingers stuff would be coming out the returns back into the pool. If that is happening you have a problem with the filter. I think some people here run a pressure around 20psi, my norm is 11psi not that it matters. Without running the pool with a clean filter and clean pool it might be tough to know what the "normal" pressure should be. Is there THAT much junk in the water? Hang in there and keep the Chlorine level up in shock territory.

Pottstown huh? We're practically neighbors!

[ryanm]

Last night I backwashed once and then put 4lbs of DE in (it says my filter requires 5lb so I figured 4 was good after a backwash?). Of course something else went wrong. The replacement hose I used started collapsing on itself from the pressure! How annoying. I used braided PVC (I think that what it's called) which I saw on some pumps at the pool store. So I have to replace that now. arhg

The water doesn't seem THAT dirty to me but it is pretty cloudy. It's blueish though not green. The chlorine level is another problem, so far I've put several pounds of extra strenght shock in and the Chlorine still shows as nonexistant when you test the water.

Yep I'm actually in North Coventry (which is chester co) but yeah I know Downingtown pretty well (grew up in Chester Springs).

[Bleach=Chlorine?]

You want to backwash until the water is very clear. I actually backwashed last night too, took about 8 mins before the water ran clear. I grew up in Paoli and recently moved out to Downingtown. I work with a half a dozen people who live in Pottstown, Douglasville, etc.

** That cloud is probably all the dead algea cells floating around. Keep up the good work!**

[duraleigh]

The chlorine level is another problem, so far I've put several pounds of extra strenght shock in and the Chlorine still shows as nonexistant when you test the water.

Ryan,

I watched this thread get side tracked into filter questions when your issue is almost surely chlorine. You must continually put shock levels of chlorine in your pool to get it clear.

If your chlorine diappears, it's because you are killing algae in your pool. The answer is simple....you need more chlorine.

[ryanm]

Dave,
I need to get the other levels correct in the water for the chlorine to work though right? I've got the pH and alkalinity right now but the cyanuric acid is very low. I need to get that up first right or should I just start putting a ton of chlorine in?

Back to the filter, I hooked up the vacuum this weekend and it seemed to be working and all but then I noticed little bits of leaves were coming back into the pool. Also when I put DE into the skimmer it seems a good amount of it comes into the water. Could my filter elements be messed up?

thanks
Ryan

[duraleigh]

Ryan,

I have sand, not DE, so cannot comment accurately on the filter. That said, NO filter should be putting ANYTHING visible in your pool....you should only see clear water returning. Other will advise on how to inspect/correct your filter problem but you do have a problem.

Secondly, apply your Cl dosage at dusk, when the Sun is off the pool. It will be very effective against organics when there is no Sun to kill it. With no CYA, you should bring your Cl level up to 10-12ppm at dusk and then test the next morning. Any drop in Cl during the night will indicate that you're still fighting algae. (don't be surprised if most of it is gone). Repeat that procedure each evening until your pool is clear.

Are you holding off CYA for a reason?

Since you have not posted test numbers, I assume you do not have a test kit. That's essential for getting and keeping your pool sparkling.

[ryanm]

I did put a bucket of stabalizer in Sunday night and Monday morning. I tested the water tues and the CYA was still low. I've been getting my water tested at the pool store for about 2 weeks now and only the last time did they tell me I needed stabalizer. I'm going back to the store tonight or tomorrow to get more shock and have it tested again. "shock" is what I should put in right? And pretty much do a crap load? I can't overdo it right?

thanks
Ryan

[mama's_pool]

Ryan,
I previously had some of the problems you describe. I had to resort to using a Floccing agent to get the dead algae/particles to cling to each other and fall to the bottom, making it easy to vacuum them out of the pool. One year, the water was so bad (we had a tree overhead and winter cover sprung a leak), the water looked as thick as playdough! I shocked constantly, and used a gallon of algaecide by the time i was done. The process took about a week. From totally green, pasty-looking to cloudy to finally clear. What i found out that year was it was best to vacuum to clumps off the bottom and out of the pool rather than recycling the water. I eventually needed about 3-4 more inches of water, but it was the Floc that worked for me. I then kept a bottle of Floc on hand.

[ChuckD]

Sorry to just jump in here but I've followed this thread and I'm not clear why none of the more experienced here haven't addressed what I see as a pressing problem, that the filter was run for 'hours' without DE. This to me is a serious issue (tho not fatal).

For backgound I run a Hayward EC-65 DE with a 3/4 hp SuperPump (and am very satisfied with it).

If this were me, the first thing I would do is open it up and thoroughly clean, and then inspect the filter fabric. I don't think the warning to not run without DE is the risk of damage so much as that you will clog up the fabric with gunk that won't easliy backwash out. That fabric is supposed to provide the foundation of your DE coating, which will shed easily when backwashed, taking with it all the entrapped particulate. It's not meant to be the filter medium.

That said, I think it would help if you posted the make and model of the filter so we could help you do this. IMHO, I don't think you're going to get optimum filtering/flowrate from it until you do, not to mention finding out why the thing is passing debris back to the pool. You'll also get a good understanding of how a DE filter works. In the case of the Hayward it's a very easy, straightforward process (tho a bit tedious with it's 15 nuts and bolts, God bless my B&D power screwdriver!).

ChuckD