Take the long vial that's about the diameter of a quarter and fill it with pool water to the 10ml line. Invert the vial and stick it down at least 6" to 1' before turning it over so you don't get surface water. You'll have to dump most of it out.

FC:
Add a scoop of the DPD powder (r-0870? --it's the only powder in the kit). Swirl it around. It should turn the water pink or red. If some stays on the bottom of the vial, don't worry about it.
Now add 1 drop at a time of the R-871 liquid, in the brown bottle. Swirl after each drop. Count your drops as each drop represents an FC of .5ppm. So 2 drops is 1ppm, 9 drops is 4.5ppm. Keep adding drops and swirling one at a time until the water goes clear. If it has a slight pinkish tone (put it on a white piece of paper) add drops till that is gone. The number of drips divided by 2 is your FC level.

CC:
USING THE SAME VIAL OF WATER AS ABOVE--Now add exactly 5 drops of R-0003.
If the water does not turn pink at all, your CC is 0 (zero) which is ideal.
If it turns pink, add R-0871 drops as above, counting drops again until the water is clear with no pink tinge. If one drop alone clears it, you have between 0 and .5ppm of CC and that's not a problem.

Other ways to run the test:

25ml line:
If you fill the tube to the 25ml line, then it takes 5 drops of R-0871 to indicate 1ppm of FC and each drop is .2 rather than .5.
There's no reason to use this for your pool unless you want to go forward with the CC test and see if the 0-.5ppm is really only 0-.2ppm.
This test, while more accurate, uses 2.5 times as much precious reagents with only a minor gain. I use it ONLY to test the concentration of my liquid chlorine.

5ml line:
If your FC is high, you can use this line instead. Here, each drop of R-0871 represents 1ppm of FC, so when FC is in the 15-30 range, you'll use half as much reagent, and, at that level, the additional accuracy of .5ppm isn't necessary.

To get TC, remember that TC = FC + CC.