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Thread: The green algae tint that will not go away

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
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    Howell NJ
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    Default Re: The green algae tint that will not go away

    The previous sample tested at 16.5 ppm free chlor.
    What test kit are you using to test your shock levels?
    Whats your CYA level? ( Pucks will not raise it fast enough IMO. Is a slow process for that size pool)

    I would back wash filter, and add DE till the psi goes up a 1 lb.

    ( A good test to to see if you have a filter issue. Dump DE in the skimmer real fast and look at the return. No white should come out return. If it does that indicates filter issues)

    Once filter is running with DE run on high 24/7, Keep at shock level..
    Get some clarifier and add that per instructions. 4 oz per 10k gallons I believe.
    Get the pink stuff I linked to and add that per instructions.

    Post back and let us know what happens in a day or two.

    Note::::: Vaccuum and brush the pool after you add the bleach in the evening. Do this every day... I can tell you how many issues are just from not brushing the walls and vacuuming....
    12x18 vinyl AG 6.2K gal; Hayward equp: 16" sand filter (spring clean up) -- Xtream 100 sft cart (after clean up) -- Power Flo Matrix 1hp 2spd pump w/ AO Smith motor

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
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    Default Re: The green algae tint that will not go away

    Ok, so here are the latest measurements using the pool store computer: (my Taylor kit is still being pondered by Amazon)

    FC: 3.15 (notice the drop from 16+ from the last time)
    CC: 0.59
    TC: 3.74
    PH: 7.7
    Hardness: 27 ppm
    ALK: 119 ppm
    CYA: 12 ppm
    Copper - 0
    Iron - 0.4 ppm

    The guy explained that when total and free chlor are close, it leads to murky water.
    They also suggested adding 65 pounds of 'Calcium Hardness Control' to bring that up.

    Then, a bottle of Metal Away followed by 8 capfuls of Alum (some sort of sequestering agent) to the skimmer and let it run for 48 hours, then backwash and repeat.

    Just for fun, I put in a few Ascorbic acid tabs in a calm section to observe any change to the liner - nothing.

    The murk seems a bit better today, so perhaps it is just a matter of continued filtering? The liner verticals look good (blue).
    Edit: adding in a bit of DE as well. Shame it only comes in 25lb boxes.

    Is the Pink Stuff similar to the Alum? Between the shipping cost and delay, I'd hate to have to go that route (nobody sells it locally).

  3. #13
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    Default Re: The green algae tint that will not go away

    65 pounds of 'Calcium Hardness Control' to bring that up.
    Vinyl pools dont need to adjust hardness levels for any reason.. waste of $$$


    Then, a bottle of Metal Away followed by 8 capfuls of Alum (some sort of sequestering agent)
    Dont know the brand of metal away so cant read whats in it unless you provide a link...


    aluminum sulfate
    That would of been a last resort... What a labor intensive issue that stuff creates. I would not want it in my pool but good luck.. Youll have fun trying to vacuum the bottom of the pool after everything settles..

    Would of rather you tried the blue stuff which is a cationic (positively charged) polymer. PolydimethyldiallyammoniumChloride
    12x18 vinyl AG 6.2K gal; Hayward equp: 16" sand filter (spring clean up) -- Xtream 100 sft cart (after clean up) -- Power Flo Matrix 1hp 2spd pump w/ AO Smith motor

  4. #14
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    Default Re: The green algae tint that will not go away

    I'll try the Blue Stuff then.

    Are you saying that the Alum will create more effort in the act of vacuuming itself? As in, actually vacuuming will be difficult, or just more times having to vacuum?

    The Metal Away does not state any ingredients. None of their potions do, aside from the shock bags.

  5. #15
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    Default Re: The green algae tint that will not go away

    http://www.jacksmagic.com/our_stuff_..._cleaners.html


    Alum will create more effort in the act of vacuuming itself?
    Youll have to siphon the bottom slowly. Stirs up easy and youll have to wait till it settles again. Long process and just makes a mess IMO

    Vacuum on low speed???

    Metal Away does not state any ingredients. None of their potions do,
    Who makes it?
    12x18 vinyl AG 6.2K gal; Hayward equp: 16" sand filter (spring clean up) -- Xtream 100 sft cart (after clean up) -- Power Flo Matrix 1hp 2spd pump w/ AO Smith motor

  6. #16
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    Default Re: The green algae tint that will not go away

    I would try a clarifier such as this...Its what I use.

    http://www.lesliespool.com/leslies-u...tra-bright.htm


    And as far as the metals in the pool that you may possibly have I assume the blue or pink stuff here.. Ones more aggresive for iron ( Pink) And ones more aggresive for copper ( blue)

    http://www.jacksmagic.com/our_stuff_..._cleaners.html
    12x18 vinyl AG 6.2K gal; Hayward equp: 16" sand filter (spring clean up) -- Xtream 100 sft cart (after clean up) -- Power Flo Matrix 1hp 2spd pump w/ AO Smith motor

  7. #17
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    CarlD is offline SuperMod Emeritus Vortex Adjuster CarlD 4 stars CarlD 4 stars CarlD 4 stars CarlD 4 stars CarlD 4 stars CarlD 4 stars
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    Default Re: The green algae tint that will not go away

    Quote Originally Posted by Orion View Post
    Ok, so here are the latest measurements using the pool store computer: (my Taylor kit is still being pondered by Amazon)

    FC: 3.15 (notice the drop from 16+ from the last time)
    CC: 0.59
    TC: 3.74
    PH: 7.7
    Hardness: 27 ppm
    ALK: 119 ppm
    CYA: 12 ppm
    Copper - 0
    Iron - 0.4 ppm

    The guy explained that when total and free chlor are close, it leads to murky water.
    They also suggested adding 65 pounds of 'Calcium Hardness Control' to bring that up.

    Then, a bottle of Metal Away followed by 8 capfuls of Alum (some sort of sequestering agent) to the skimmer and let it run for 48 hours, then backwash and repeat.

    Just for fun, I put in a few Ascorbic acid tabs in a calm section to observe any change to the liner - nothing.

    The murk seems a bit better today, so perhaps it is just a matter of continued filtering? The liner verticals look good (blue).
    Edit: adding in a bit of DE as well. Shame it only comes in 25lb boxes.

    Is the Pink Stuff similar to the Alum? Between the shipping cost and delay, I'd hate to have to go that route (nobody sells it locally).
    Sorry I've been away from this thread for a while. The guy in the pool store is full of it.

    "The guy explained that when total and free chlor are close, it leads to murky water."
    I don't have a polite word for this, it's SO wrong! The IDEAL is when TC and FC are the same. The farther apart they are, the more CC you have and the bigger the problem.

    The numbers he generated from the test don't make any sense either. You cannot measure to hundreths of a PPM by any test kit I know of outside of a science lab.
    ASSUMING (and it's a big assumption) that the numbers really are:
    FC=3.2, CC=.6, TC=3.8, pH=7.7, T/A=120, CYA=10, Copper=0 and Iron =.4
    It indicates you do NOT still have a metal problem.

    Adding 65 lbs of calcium hardness control will do NOTHING but lighten your wallet. Calcium is solely to protect the plaster and mortar in hard-sided pools, nothing else.

    The "pink stuff" is not alum. However, if you just dump it in, it doesn't work. Unfortunately, you need to lower your FC before the metals are dissolved and suspended safely.

    IF your latest numbers are right, you're back to the basics--Shock and keep shocking, filter 24/7, brush the walls and bottom, and vacuum to waste daily. Consistency and persistence is the key. Randomly throwing in stuff won't work.

    Sorry.
    Carl

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
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    Default Re: The green algae tint that will not go away

    Just as a follow-up (thanks Carl!)...

    I continued the shocking and constant filtration, while pouring 6 cupfuls of ALUM in the filter basket after each backwash. The Taylor kit finally arrived (having been constructed on the moon, apparently), and it showed my alk to be much too low.

    I know you said no to Alum in the pool, but as the evil pool store guy explained, if you dump it in the skimmer, it forms a sticky barrier on top of the sand. I can't say for sure if it actually made a difference, but the backwash water was always a lovely brown (while water in the pool was even cleared up).
    Something was doing something.

    So now it is normal.

    (I should add that I had an analysis done by a different store before the kit arrived. They wanted to sell me the hardness increaser and I refused, based on your advice. The kid at the register was dumbfounded, lol)

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