I have also had trouble this year with clearing up the pool, but all my numbers are good and water is clean, just not clear and a tinge of green. Figured out my wife was vacuuming the pool and was not vacuuming to waste, and the sand filter was literally pulvarizing the dirt, pollen and dead algae into a greenish solution. After I figured it out, we kept the kids out for a couple of days and let everything settle to the bottom, then vacuumed to waste and the water has been clear ever since. I also tried using a little DE in the filter as Carl suggests and that has been helping. But I have learned, vacuum to waste when using a sand filter!
Our pool came with a mesh safety cover. In order to avoid opening to a green pool I had to wait until late Nov to close, and had to open by beginning of March. What a pain.
After a few seasons of that, I decided to "convert" to a solid cover. Since the mesh cover was still in great shape and a new solid safety cover would be expensive, I just bought an inexpensive tarp style cover and placed that over the mesh cover. Since doing this (I think adding borates helped too), I can now close in early Oct and open in early May with no green pool. One season I couldn't open until June 8th and the pool was still clear!
Definitely get a proper test kit (the Taylor K2006 is the one recommended here) and perform a proper shock; keep FC at or a bit above shock level, appropriate for your CYA level according to the Best Guess Chart, until these three condition are met;
1. Pool is clear
2. CC is .5 or less
3. Overnight FC loss is 1ppm or less
22'x40' Grecian Lazy L 20K gal IG vinyl pool; Aqua Rite SWCG T15 cell; Hayward Pro Grid 6020 DE filter; Hayward Superpump 1hp pump; 12 hrs; Taylor K-2006; city; PF:6
I'm now at a loss. I had the water tested to find all was in order (some low ALK), but 0.4 ppm iron (no copper). They gave me a bottle of Metal Away, or whatever it is called (yes, yes, I know...) and it did nothing I can see. They also threw in a couple of the sock bags and said to run it for a couple of days, backwash, repeat.
Although the backwash did show a healthy amount of brown, the water remains green-tinted and hazy in the deep end (clear but tinted in shallow).
All I have left to try is to add some DE to the sand filter, and also hunt for a proper chelation agent.
Any other thoughts?
You need to post full test results.
If you have iron from what I know you cant really get rid of it.
You probably need to shock the pool and keep it there for a while. If iron stains are an issue then use the pink stuff here but follow the instructions..
http://www.jacksmagic.com/products/JMPINK032.html
12x18 vinyl AG 6.2K gal; Hayward equp: 16" sand filter (spring clean up) -- Xtream 100 sft cart (after clean up) -- Power Flo Matrix 1hp 2spd pump w/ AO Smith motor
Plus what are you adding to the pool?
Common source of copper is copper-based algaecides. The cheaper ones often supply copper ions rather than complexes and, if too much is used, will result in green pool water.
If the water changes color after chlorine (or any other oxidizer) is added, the swimming pool water probably contains a metal.
Shock the pool to oxidize the metal, which then settles out of solution and looks like rust. The rust can easily be vacuumed out of the pool.
Add a sequestering or chelating agent, which forms complexes with the metal and prevents it from being oxidized by the chlorine.
If the source of the copper or iron cannot be established or if it cannot be avoided, regular addition of a chelating agent or sequestering agent (metal out products) will ensure that any new metal arriving in the pool water will be held in an inactive complex.
12x18 vinyl AG 6.2K gal; Hayward equp: 16" sand filter (spring clean up) -- Xtream 100 sft cart (after clean up) -- Power Flo Matrix 1hp 2spd pump w/ AO Smith motor
The previous sample tested at 16.5 ppm free chlor. I raised the ALK. Ph was 7.2
I never use anything except borax (ph was quite low when opened) and the 5-gallon liquid chlor. Aside from that, some granular shock from Walmart or Home Depot.
The water was brown/green lake water when opened, and I shock/add liquid chlor right away. So there is no way to tell if this added to the metals problem. Same routine I follow every year except that about half of the water was trucked in last season (the rest from the muni - garden hose).
The pool has been doused with chlorine for weeks.
I can't tell if the color is due to staining, as the first few inches of the liner are normal (no water level changes over the winter). Although I can easily see my aquabot in the deep end, it is a bit murky.
I'll take another test tonight and post. The pool store has a fancy new test rig, so I mainly ignore the suggestions to add $50 of "ph up" and whatnot, except for the Metal Away bottle which is Latin for "twenty bucks away".
What test kit are you using to test your shock levels?The previous sample tested at 16.5 ppm free chlor.
Whats your CYA level? ( Pucks will not raise it fast enough IMO. Is a slow process for that size pool)
I would back wash filter, and add DE till the psi goes up a 1 lb.
( A good test to to see if you have a filter issue. Dump DE in the skimmer real fast and look at the return. No white should come out return. If it does that indicates filter issues)
Once filter is running with DE run on high 24/7, Keep at shock level..
Get some clarifier and add that per instructions. 4 oz per 10k gallons I believe.
Get the pink stuff I linked to and add that per instructions.
Post back and let us know what happens in a day or two.
Note::::: Vaccuum and brush the pool after you add the bleach in the evening. Do this every day... I can tell you how many issues are just from not brushing the walls and vacuuming....
12x18 vinyl AG 6.2K gal; Hayward equp: 16" sand filter (spring clean up) -- Xtream 100 sft cart (after clean up) -- Power Flo Matrix 1hp 2spd pump w/ AO Smith motor
Bookmarks