Hi ~ Newbie trying to learn - Not sure what to do to fix my test #s

[mawild1]

We just installed an Intex agp 32x16 with 17,000 gallons with a SW filter.
I ordered a k-2006 kit earlier and after adding the salt, letting the filter run for 24 hours, I've attempting shocking the water yesterday:

This morning the #s are:
PH: 8
(It took 3 drops of R-0004 to lower sample to 7.4)
FC: 6
CC:0
CYA: 0
TA: 140 (yesterday it was 120, but maybe human error?)
CH: 120 (same as yesterday before adding bleach)

What should I use to lower the PH and what is the best way to add the CYA and what level should I aim to get? I'd love your advice so I don't mess this up!

I've been reading the forum since before getting the pool and it's been an amazing help already - so thank you ALL for sharing your knowledge - I couldn't have gotten the pool and pump set up without all your posts. You are all an amazing resource - esp since the young girls who work at our pool store have no idea!!

[CarlD]

If your pool is 16x32 and rectangular, for it to have 17000 gallons your water must be at least 4 1/2' deep. If it's an oval, your water must be 5' deep. That's the actual water depth, not the wall height. Is that right?

First off, you can fully ignore your CH #. Unless it's reaching into the 400-500 range, it's meaningless in a vinyl pool
Second, don't worry about T/A either. When your pH comes down so will T/A and it's not at a worrisome level anyway.

Simplest way to lower pH as far as I'm concerned is fill a 5 gallon bucket with roughly 4 gallons. Then pour in a cup or two of Muriatic acid. Be sure to wear eye and hand protection and do NOT breathe the fumes. Then pour that into the return stream. Wait about an hour and test pH again. Repeat until pH is in the 7.2-7.8 range (I like 7.4-7.6).

Or you can buy Dry Acid at most pool stores. I like to dissolve it in water in a bucket as well. You don't want it on your hands or face but it's a little easier to use and store than Muriatic Acid.

If you find that your pH keeps rising, which sometimes happens with salt pools, you will THEN want to lower your T/A. But that's only if you need that.

[mawild1]

Thank You Carl! Yes, the pool is actually 52" high.

I like your bucket method - I'll pick up the Muriatic Acid today and follow this.
I also added some more chlorine to bring it closer to shock levels after those tests above, but I haven't retested yet. The water looks clear and lovely for what that is worth.

One quick question - should I be adding additional stabilizer to bring my CYA up asap? I'm leaving out of town for three days and have to leave my DH instructions.

I did put a granular CYA stabilizer in, but it hasn't brought the numbers up yet, but I read that it can take a few days to show - so I'm not sure if I should worry yet. I also don't want to waste the test kit, as it's tough to find here in Canada

The heat pump is being installed while I am gone this week, so I was hoping to have the water #s ok for the kids to enjoy the pool this week. Thank you again for your help!

[CarlD]

If the pool is 52" high, the water is probably only 48" or even 46". You measure the height (depth) of the water, not the wall to figure capacity.

Stabilizer can take up to a week to give you an accurate reading. If your CYA=0, your FC=6, and (i'm guessing) your CC=0, why do you want to raise FC any higher?

One thing you CAN consider doing is using pure Tri-chlor tablets (only 99%, nothing lower). Trichlor adds 6ppm of CYA for every 10 ppm of FC, and is very acidic so it can bring your pH down, too. You just have to watch all 3 things.

Now you mentioned salt. If you are using an SWCG with salt in the water you need to keep your CYA between 60 and 80 ppm, and your FC should be at least 5% of your CYA level. So if CYA=60, your FC should always be 3 or higher. If CYA is 80, then FC should be 4.

Are your sure your salt level is at or near the recommended 3000ppm level?

[mawild1]

Hi Carl - Thanks so much for helping me! Yes, the CC is 0
I was raising the FC because I thought I should shock the pool first before we start using it. Ben's Best Guess chart shows min levels of FC of 10-15 for lower CYA (which I am assuming mine is) for shock levels. Maybe I don't need to do this as the water is nice and clear already?
I just came back with the Muriatic Acid, so I will use that tonight when the wind dies down a bit to bring the PH levels down. I'll also try the Tri-Chlor tabs if I can find them after I'm back next week if they are still needed.
I added the salt (360 lbs) according to the recommendation in the Intex manual yesterday, and I haven't actually measured the salt level. I ordered the k-1766 kit from Taylor but it hasn't arrived yet. The pump itself has an indicator for low salt, which isn't flashing - but that's all I know at the moment.
Should I get a salt test strip in the meantime?
Thanks again!

[CarlD]

Usually the salt test function on an SWCG is best, but Intex, being a low cost system may not be as reliable. I just don't know.

With your numbers and a clear pool why would you shock? No need I can see.

[mawild1]

Thank you!