To answer your question, maybe. It depends.
Which test kit are you talking about? Give as much I do as you can.
Who told you to replace it?
I have a test kit that I'm told to replace after a year, and from the chlorine test results, that seems like a something I might need to do. The cost is a bit much, though, especially right now. Is there a way to benchmark the kit w/household products to be sure?
To answer your question, maybe. It depends.
Which test kit are you talking about? Give as much I do as you can.
Who told you to replace it?
26K gal 20x40 rectangular IG vinyl pool; Apr 2014: New pump, liner, auto-cover, & water; Pentair Whisperflo 1HP pump; Pentair Trition sand filter; Cover/Star CS-500 auto cover; Taylor K-2006C; OTO
The K-1004. The instructions that came with say the reagents should be replaced after a year.
Ugh. That kit has a history of short longevity; it will last two seasons if you stored it inside in a dark area over the winter. That's said with no guarantees.
It is also missing several key tests: the FAS-DPD test for FC/CC and the CYA test.
I am sorry to tell you that to manage your pool properly, even with fresh reagents for the 1004, that kit is just not enough.
I suggest the 2006C, but it is hard to get in Canada. Some people have friends in the states who will buy it and then ship it north.... Right now it is on Amazon for $55-60 usd in the USA. Check your Canada Amazon.
I am sorry I don't have better news.
Last edited by FormerBromineUser; 06-10-2015 at 02:01 AM. Reason: Add pricing
26K gal 20x40 rectangular IG vinyl pool; Apr 2014: New pump, liner, auto-cover, & water; Pentair Whisperflo 1HP pump; Pentair Trition sand filter; Cover/Star CS-500 auto cover; Taylor K-2006C; OTO
Well, I did have it in the garage during the winter, which didn't see a lot of light (and in its case). So are you saying it's probably still working and my chlorine is as low as it says?
I think my kit tests for FC/CC and how important is the CYA test above that of the pH test?It is also missing several key tests: the FAS-DPD test for FC/CC and the CYA test.
Since I'm trying to save 50CAD by avoiding buying a new K-1004, that's not on the table right now, unless it lasts 10 years or something.I suggest the 2006C, but it is hard to get in Canada. Some people have friends in the states who will buy it and then ship it north.... Right now it is on Amazon for $55-60 usd in the USA. Check your Canada Amazon.
Hi. A few comments:
The kit MAY be good still. CarlD came up with this way to test the strength of his bleach. If you know your bleach is fresh (check the code on the bottle. Code will read something like 15173. That would be the 173rd day of 2015), You could try a sort of reverse of his test. I quote, "So, if you pour 1.88ml of bleach/liquid shock/liquid chlorine into 5 gallons of fresh water, you should get the same FC reading as if you dump 1 gallon into 10,000 gallons of water." You could give that a try. Hope that makes sense.
Secondly, your FC/CC test is very different than a FAS-DPD. The FAS-DPD can test up to 50ppm FC. Yours only goes to 5ppm.
A CYA test is critical to pool management. You must know the CYA level of your water in order to determine the amount of FC necessary to keep your pool sanitary and algae-free. See: http://poolsolutions.com/gd/best-gue...ine-chart.html
Another option is to go get a cheap OTO kit (not refills, you need the kit with the comparator tube). Then you will be able to test FC/CC with fresh reagents although still only to 5ppm. You can use this to at least help go a bit higher: https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-t...rev%252001.jpg
Finally, I would strongly encourage you to save up for the K-2006C.
Good luck.
26K gal 20x40 rectangular IG vinyl pool; Apr 2014: New pump, liner, auto-cover, & water; Pentair Whisperflo 1HP pump; Pentair Trition sand filter; Cover/Star CS-500 auto cover; Taylor K-2006C; OTO
I found a number printed on the side saying "14 302 19:10 A4 K1", which I guess means it was from last October (in the early evening).
Wow, 5 gallons, eh? Can those figures be scaled? Does this mean if I got an eye dropper and added 0.5mL of bleach to 1.33 gallons of fresh water, that I could perform the same test?pour 1.88ml of bleach/liquid shock/liquid chlorine into 5 gallons of fresh water, you should get the same FC reading as if you dump 1 gallon into 10,000 gallons of water." You could give that a try. Hope that makes sense.
Also, what counts as "fresh water"? My water comes from a well and through a softener.
What about the reagents for pH and alkalinity? How viable do you think they are? My pool was tested at 7.8pH and moderate alkalinity.
Thing about that is, last summer my pool was highly algae-free, so since I'm trying to save money, I'm going w/the if-it-ain't-broke philosophy. Unless there's a way to make the K-2006C last several years, it'll have to wait.Secondly, your FC/CC test is very different than a FAS-DPD. The FAS-DPD can test up to 50ppm FC. Yours only goes to 5ppm.
A CYA test is critical to pool management. You must know the CYA level of your water in order to determine the amount of FC necessary to keep your pool sanitary and algae-free. See: http://poolsolutions.com/gd/best-gue...ine-chart.html
Another option is to go get a cheap OTO kit (not refills, you need the kit with the comparator tube). Then you will be able to test FC/CC with fresh reagents although still only to 5ppm. You can use this to at least help go a bit higher: https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-t...rev%252001.jpg
Finally, I would strongly encourage you to save up for the K-2006C.
..
26K gal 20x40 rectangular IG vinyl pool; Apr 2014: New pump, liner, auto-cover, & water; Pentair Whisperflo 1HP pump; Pentair Trition sand filter; Cover/Star CS-500 auto cover; Taylor K-2006C; OTO
I think you had your autocorrect set to morse code or ancient Babylonian or something
Hahaha!!! Sorry about that!
I am hoping that CarlD will jump in here, as it's his method, but your math is certainly correct. Fresh water would be water without chlorine. (Some municipalities add FC and/or CC to their water.) I would think that your well-water would be fine for testing although I would avoid the softener because of the NaCl (Sodium chloride....)
According to what I have read on the Taylor site, the pH and alkalinity reagents should be good for quite a while if you've kept them cool and dark. (I said before over the winter, but that also goes for the swim season too.) Here's Taylor's guide to checking your chemicals and although you don't have many of these reagents, others reading this might: http://www.taylortechnologies.com/Ch...SP?ContentID=2
A K2006 WILL last several years, 10 might be stretching it, although I have heard people who say they've done it. The thing that I question with those claims is that sooner or later you are going to use up a bottle and have to order more. That just resets part of the clock..... Mine is several years old and I have replaced these reagents due only to use, not "going bad": FAS-DPD powder (0870), titrating reagent (0871), pH indicator (0004), and CYA reagent (0013). The rest are still going strong!
26K gal 20x40 rectangular IG vinyl pool; Apr 2014: New pump, liner, auto-cover, & water; Pentair Whisperflo 1HP pump; Pentair Trition sand filter; Cover/Star CS-500 auto cover; Taylor K-2006C; OTO
Bookmarks