Not sure that there is any algua in the well water as its already pre treated in a 10000 gal holding tank.
If I would shock the pool before adding water would that help? I always use straight 12% chlorine I buy in 45 gal drums.
Not sure that there is any algua in the well water as its already pre treated in a 10000 gal holding tank.
If I would shock the pool before adding water would that help? I always use straight 12% chlorine I buy in 45 gal drums.
20x40 IG liner pool, Pentair 1.5 hp pump, 30" Ranger sand filter.
Taylor K-2006 kit, Dolphin M4 Supreme cleaner.
Well, that is certainly strange.
Instead of playing the "20 Guesses" game and going back & forth on speculation, I think the appropriate thing would be for you to post a complete set of water chemistry data for both your pool water and your fill water. Having been on this site, you know that we all prefer test results from a Taylor K-2006 test kit. If you can post the full suite of test results and update your signature with details about your pool (size, equipments, etc), then I think I and other folks here can help you better. Short of that, all it will be is conjecture...
16k gal IG gunite PebbleTec (Caribbean Blue), 18' x 36' free form with raised spa/spillway and separate rock waterfall. All Pentair Equipment pad - 3HP IntelliFlo VS / 1.5HP WhisperFlo, MasterTemp 400k BTU/hr heater, QuadDE-100 filter, IC40 SWCG, IntelliTouch/EasyTouch Controls
I use Taylor K-2006, cannot change my signature?
Here are my pool water #.
Fc 2
Ph 7,5
TA 90
CH 120
CYA 40
My well water is FC 0.5-1.0, ph of 7.0
Thinking if I shock the pool before adding chlorine, would that prevent that?
20x40 IG liner pool, Pentair 1.5 hp pump, 30" Ranger sand filter.
Taylor K-2006 kit, Dolphin M4 Supreme cleaner.
Ok, I think I see the problem now - your pool water has far too little FC. For a CYA (stabilizer) level of 40ppm, your MINIMUM FC level should be 3ppm. And that is the LOWEST it should ever go in any 24-hour period. In fact, you should probably be running your pool's FC somewhere between 4-6ppm to maintain proper chlorination.
As well, I don't believe your well water is sanitary in the sense that it is probably ok for the purposes of using it on the farm, but I doubt you are able to maintain a constant 1ppm FC level especially without any CYA in it. In fact, I would be willing to wager that your well water falls below 1ppm FC and that algae and/or other pathogens are able to survive in it. Municipal water supplies can get away with 1-1.5ppm of FC with no stabilizer because the water is highly treated at the source (chlorine, ozone/UV, microfiltration,etc) and runs through relatively clean piping before it reaches your home. An underground well is no where near as clean.
So, you're taking suspect well water, adding it to your pool and DILUTING your already way too low pool FC to a level where algae can bloom. Then you shock your pool and kill the algae bloom you started with your fill water.
So, I would recommend two things -
1. You need to RAISE and MAINTAIN your pool FC at a higher level (4ppm to 6ppm);
2. You should shock treat your fill water BEFORE dumping it in the pool
Other PF'ers can chime in if they think I'm off base....
16k gal IG gunite PebbleTec (Caribbean Blue), 18' x 36' free form with raised spa/spillway and separate rock waterfall. All Pentair Equipment pad - 3HP IntelliFlo VS / 1.5HP WhisperFlo, MasterTemp 400k BTU/hr heater, QuadDE-100 filter, IC40 SWCG, IntelliTouch/EasyTouch Controls
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