new pool (1wk) here are chem results

[mneal]

We have a 10 day old IGP (Marcite) and I got the water tested at a local pool store. They had me buy about $100 of stuff . When I asked if results are effected by the new pool surface (I am still brushing 2X day), they didn't really know so I thought I would get second opinion here. The water is clear and I think as a newbie I am doing OK. I received a small test kit from PB and surprising (or maybe not) it's results are not same as pool store. Oh, I have a auto chlorine dispenser set about 25% open. I am going to buy one of Ben's kits, bummer it sounds like they have quite a lead time.

Total Chlorine 1.0 ppm
Free Chlorine 1.0 ppm
Ph 7.5
Calcium Hardness 160 ppm
Stabilizer 25ppm
TDS 325 ppm
Total Alk 65ppm

I am sorta worried about adding the stabilizer and Calcium hardness since reversion is difficult. Thoughts from the Pros? BTW:This site has taught me more in a month since I found it then I have ever thought possible. Thanks to all who contribute.

[mneal]

No advise?

[Bleach=Chlorine?]

We have a 10 day old IGP (Marcite) and I got the water tested at a local pool store. They had me buy about $100 of stuff . When I asked if results are effected by the new pool surface (I am still brushing 2X day), they didn't really know so I thought I would get second opinion here.
Yes, a new plaster pool will affect pool chem. I would search posts for 'new plaster' or 'new pool' for specific answers - my pool is 30yrs old!

The water is clear and I think as a newbie I am doing OK. I received a small test kit from PB and surprising (or maybe not) it's results are not same as pool store.
No surprise there... human error, contamination, etc. Get a decent kit, if you can't wait for Ben's get a Taylor K-2006, and test consistently then you know you can trust your results.

Oh, I have a auto chlorine dispenser set about 25% open.
I would stop using this soon and begin BBB method as anything that goes into automated chlorinator is stabalized - CYA. 30-50 is ideal and you are approaching. Save the pucks for going away on vacation and treat with bleach now to keep the CYA steady.

I am going to buy one of Ben's kits, bummer it sounds like they have quite a lead time.
Any drop-based kit from Walmart, etc will do the trick in the short term if you want to order Ben's.


Total Chlorine 1.0 ppm
Free Chlorine 1.0 ppm
Ph 7.5
Calcium Hardness 160 ppm
Stabilizer 25ppm
TDS 325 ppm
Total Alk 65ppm

I am sorta worried about adding the stabilizer and Calcium hardness since reversion is difficult.
CH is one thing that will 'bounce' around for a new pool because of the plaster walls.

[CarlD]

Total Chlorine 1.0 ppm
Free Chlorine 1.0 ppm
Ph 7.5
Calcium Hardness 160 ppm
Stabilizer 25ppm
TDS 325 ppm
Total Alk 65ppm

TC, FC, a bit low--Aim for 3ppm

pH: PERFECT

CH--a little low for a concrete pool--you want 200-400ppm. You can add calcium or chlorinate with Cal-hypo until calcium is in range. For a vinyl pool we don't worry about calcium until it hits 500ppm

Stabilizer(CYA): a tad low but OK. Since you are using a auto-chlorinator (I assume with tablets) that will come up on its own. 30-50 is the normal range. When it hits 50ppm, stop using tablets or powders and switch to bleach for chlorine.

TDS: A BS # pool stores like because it sounds important. When it hits 4000 you MAY need to pay attention to it, but probably not. Even then, unless you actually have a problem, TDS is totally irrelevant.

TA: Low. Add 1 lb of baking soda (That's right, Arm&Hammer) and wait 6-24 hours and measure again. Repeat until TA is in the 80-125 range (which you need). I prefer the 100-125 range myself. For vinyl, the upper limit is around 180ppm

New concrete pools tend to push pH up, and tri-chlor tablets are very acid and push it down. For now, they are IDEAL for your new pool.

Hope this helps.

[mneal]

I had to leave town for work and just got back last night so I had not messed w/ pool. Luckily it still looks clear. Wife brushed it 2X /day and that was extent of pool maintenance. I bought some TA when I was at the store store getting water tested last weekend and I added about a 1 # of that this morning before work. Tonight I will test water again and add a bit of chlorine. We did get about 5 inches of rain Monday and Tuesday so I drained the pool a bit so skimmer would work right and that might mess with water chem too I guess. Water is pretty clear and we have a pool party this Saturday so I am scared to mess with it too much before that.
Since I am using tablets for time being and must go out of town again next week I will leave tablets run and let the CYA rise until I can get back and let pool age a bit and the do all bleach or liquid chlorine. The pool store sold me some CH stuff too and I will add a little of that Monday too in small doses. PB told me always start small and don't put entire dose PS recommends in, and that seems like sound advise.

Did I ever mention how difficult life would be without forums like this! Thanks a bunch.


adjust and I added

TC, FC, a bit low--Aim for 3ppm

pH: PERFECT

CH--a little low for a concrete pool--you want 200-400ppm. You can add calcium or chlorinate with Cal-hypo until calcium is in range. For a vinyl pool we don't worry about calcium until it hits 500ppm

Stabilizer(CYA): a tad low but OK. Since you are using a auto-chlorinator (I assume with tablets) that will come up on its own. 30-50 is the normal range. When it hits 50ppm, stop using tablets or powders and switch to bleach for chlorine.

TDS: A BS # pool stores like because it sounds important. When it hits 4000 you MAY need to pay attention to it, but probably not. Even then, unless you actually have a problem, TDS is totally irrelevant.

TA: Low. Add 1 lb of baking soda (That's right, Arm&Hammer) and wait 6-24 hours and measure again. Repeat until TA is in the 80-125 range (which you need). I prefer the 100-125 range myself. For vinyl, the upper limit is around 180ppm

New concrete pools tend to push pH up, and tri-chlor tablets are very acid and push it down. For now, they are IDEAL for your new pool.

Hope this helps.