Quote Originally Posted by phillipjko View Post
Tested today at 4/20/2015

FC is 50 drops x 3 - 150 ( too high)
CC - 5 Drops
PH - 10 drops (Base Demand Test)
TA - 90
Calcium Hardness - 300
2 weeks ago when opening I added CYA of about 3 LBS remainder accidentally. I do not have the CYA agent to test....for now.
What I should do? Thanks
[EDIT]

DUH!! Just realized something - if your FC is so high (which it could be), then your pH tests are all meaningless!! FC over 10ppm causes the phenol red indicator dye to chemically change giving it false color readings.

SO, you need to get below 10ppm FC to do any other tests. The CH and TA indicator dyes are also chemically interfered with by high FC.

[END-EDIT]



Is it 50drops or 150drops? Why are you multiplying by 3??

If your water sample size is 25mL and its 50 drops then -

FC = 10ppm
CC = 1ppm

pH - ??? (It's 5 drops of phenol red and then compare color of solution to color comparator on measurement block...why were you putting in Base Demand??)

TA = 90ppm
CH = 300ppm

If your sample size was 10mL and it's 50drops then -

FC = 25ppm
CC = 2.5ppm

So, either way your water is not right. You have 1ppm at least of CC's which is indicative of organic waste in your water.

You have to get your CYA tested. Order more reagent. Try Amazon. As a stop-gap measure you could take a water sample to a pool store and ask for them to test your stabilizer level. Pool stores suck at testing CYA and usually get it wrong, but you have no CYA reagent test and it's going to take time.

Assuming you were actually at 0ppm CYA, then adding 3lbs of stabilizer would get you to 17ppm. You would have needed to add 84oz (5lbs 4oz) to go from 0ppm to 30ppm. So, you're not even halfway there yet...again, ASSUMING your CYA was actually 0ppm.

At this point you need to retest pH and report back as adding that much base demand reagent makes no sense. Whatever your pH is, it needs to be ~7.2 or so in order to shock your pool.

One question - how old is your K-2006 test kit? None of these numbers/drop counts make any sense. If your reagents are old or spent time outside the house in a cold/hot/humid environment, your reagents could be screwed up. Several of them are temperature and humidity sensitive.

I'll ask others to chime in, but until you can get your testing under control, you may have to go to a pool store and get your water tested there. It's a lousy option but the only one that make sense to me given all the spurious test results.