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Thread: A picture is worth a thousand words . . .

  1. #11
    Pamsel is offline Registered+ Thread Analyst Pamsel 0
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    Default Re: A picture is worth a thousand words . . .

    Just tested again - Cl dropped to 10-11 range by evening. Will add another 2 gal Chlorine tonight ~ want to keep it up in shock range until I'm sure that green is copper and not algae.

    PH just tested 7.8, so it's coming down. Will add more acid now, then CL in about an hour.

    Have posted on the metals forum as well, so will hope for an answer there soon.

    Yes, Simmons, I used 2 qts of copper algaecide, one 5/23 and 5/26. The water's been green ever since, but it was very dark green two weeks ago and that I'm sure was algae. But I've put so much Chlorine in the pool these past two weeks, I don't know how any algae can still be alive in there!

    Thanks!
    Pam, Illinois

    "17'x33' oval 14.5K gal IG vinyl pool; liquid chlorine; Hayward Pro Series, M-S-244T sand filter; A.O. Smith Centurian, Switchless, 1.40 HP pump; Right now 24/7hrs; Pool Solutions PS234
    Serial #6511, Drops / Powder; Community well; summer: none; winter: mesh; ; PF:8.3"

  2. #12
    mbar's Avatar
    mbar is offline Lifetime Member Whizbang Spinner mbar 3 stars mbar 3 stars mbar 3 stars mbar 3 stars
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    Default Re: A picture is worth a thousand words . . .

    Pamsel, I tried to pm but your box is full, so I will put it down here:

    I am not sure the green is from the copper. I think that the high ph and alkalinity are making it hard to get rid of the last of the algae. If the water is green because of the copper, then the copper seems to be in suspension from the sequestering agent. High ph and high chlorine will make stain - so maybe that is what is keeping the water green. From the picture of the step, it doesn't seem to have any stain on it, so if it is copper, then how to get rid of it? I'm thinking that you have to get your ph way down, and your alkalinity down too. I'm not sure if the ascorbic acid would work on the water being green - I never tried it, but it may be a good way to go, because the ascorbic acid will certainly lower your ph and alkalinity. I just don't know - I thought the sequestering agent is supposed to hold the copper in suspension and not turn your water green, and I think there is a difference between a chelating agent and a sequesterant - maybe someone else can chime in with the answer? But If it were me, I would really get the pool acidic and see what happens, also if you cut a leg off a pair of tights and put it in the skimmer basket, it will filter out a lot smaller particles.

    I can only imagine how frustrated you must be - keep us informed and please keep asking any questions you may have. This is a puzzle, but it probably has a simple solution - we just have to find it.
    Northeast PA
    16'x32' kidney 16K gal IG fiberglass pool; Bleach; Hayward 200lb sand filter; Hayward pump; 24hrs; Pf200; well; summer: none; winter: mesh; ; PF:7.5

  3. #13
    Pamsel is offline Registered+ Thread Analyst Pamsel 0
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    Default Re: A picture is worth a thousand words . . .

    Thank you, Marie. I am using more acid now to try to get my PH in line and am aerating 24/7 to help bring down the TA. I also am still trying to keep my CL at shock level, in case there still is live algae, so I might be fighting against myself, trying to do both at the same time.

    I'm not familiar with the ascorbic acid treatment you mentioned. Is there a discussion about that here somewhere? I will also get a pantyhose liner in the skimmer basket tomorrow. Anything that might help is worth trying.

    Frustrated, yes! Very! My husband just keeps telling me to drain it and start over, but with a vinyl liner, that's not so easy either.

    It's after 11:00 pm now, so I will test again in the morning and see if I'm making progress on lowering the PH and TA. I added 12 ozs of acid twice today, so will check in the morning and will post my results.
    Pam, Illinois

    "17'x33' oval 14.5K gal IG vinyl pool; liquid chlorine; Hayward Pro Series, M-S-244T sand filter; A.O. Smith Centurian, Switchless, 1.40 HP pump; Right now 24/7hrs; Pool Solutions PS234
    Serial #6511, Drops / Powder; Community well; summer: none; winter: mesh; ; PF:8.3"

  4. #14
    mbar's Avatar
    mbar is offline Lifetime Member Whizbang Spinner mbar 3 stars mbar 3 stars mbar 3 stars mbar 3 stars
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    Default Re: A picture is worth a thousand words . . .

    What is your fill water's alkalinity? Sometimes it is good to drain some water and refill, but first I would really try to lower the ph down to 7.0 - 7.2. You may as well try this first, since you have a lot of chlorine in your water now. See if it makes a difference, if not then I will explain the ascorbic acid treatment.
    Northeast PA
    16'x32' kidney 16K gal IG fiberglass pool; Bleach; Hayward 200lb sand filter; Hayward pump; 24hrs; Pf200; well; summer: none; winter: mesh; ; PF:7.5

  5. #15
    Pamsel is offline Registered+ Thread Analyst Pamsel 0
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    Default Re: A picture is worth a thousand words . . .

    Test results this morning:

    CL 14-15
    PH 8.0
    TA 340
    Water appearance unchanged

    I added 12 ozs acid twice yesterday and my PH has not gone down. Is that because the TA is so high? If so, doesn't the PH have to come down first in order to get the TA down? I feel like I'm in a vicious cycle. I have to be gone for the day. Since the CL is high, I'm going to add about 24 ozs acid this morning and hold off on any more CL until I get home, mid-afternoon and will test again then. Also, I know from this forum that the high PH makes my CL less effective and the high CL can make my PH test results skewed, right?

    I haven't tested my fill water, Marie. I will do that when I get home, since I need to be leaving soon. I did drain down about 1/3 two weeks ago when I first came to this forum.

    I am considering calling a local service I just heard about called The Pool Doctor - supposedly they will come and service/treat the pool until it's right. Trouble is, that will cost me more $$$$ and will probably fill my water with who knows what chemicals. On the other hand, if he will clear up the water, maybe it's worth it?? I don't know...

    I have 1/2 a bottle of BioGuard "Pool Magnet Plus" which says on the bottle it "ties up heavy metals and prevents stains caused by metals". However, I remember using this a couple of years ago and whatever it did, it seemed to pull the metals out of the water and drop them to the bottom of the pool. I remember that every time I put fill water in the pool, the bottom of the pool would get covered with yellow-brown stuff that I had to vacuum off the bottom of the pool. It was very frustrating at the time, but I'm wondering now if it would pull copper out of the water, in case that is the problem here.

    Any thoughts on all of this confusion??
    Last edited by Pamsel; 06-13-2006 at 10:32 AM.
    Pam, Illinois

    "17'x33' oval 14.5K gal IG vinyl pool; liquid chlorine; Hayward Pro Series, M-S-244T sand filter; A.O. Smith Centurian, Switchless, 1.40 HP pump; Right now 24/7hrs; Pool Solutions PS234
    Serial #6511, Drops / Powder; Community well; summer: none; winter: mesh; ; PF:8.3"

  6. #16
    Pamsel is offline Registered+ Thread Analyst Pamsel 0
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    Default Re: A picture is worth a thousand words . . .

    Well, my 6:00 pm CL & PH are:

    CL 6.0
    PH 7.8

    I am convinced that I still have algae or I don't think I'd be losing that much CL during the day - even on a sunny day. I took another picture of the steps tonight, after not brushing or vacuuming for a day so that you can see what has settled out on the top step and see how yellow the second step is, due to what has settled on it. How can algae still be alive and growing after all this chlorine??

    http://www.mtco.com/~aug20/6-13-06.jpg

    I asked about this last week but didn't pursue it - but how do I know if I have a filtration problem? I am thinking that may be it. It really doesn't matter what I pour into this pool - NOTHING CHANGES!! I have put almost 85 gallons of Chlorine in the pool and in the past two weeks, 2 gallons of acid with almost no results. Tonight, my filter pressure guage is spasmodically hovering between 35-40 and it has always run steadily at 18-20. Even when I backwashed, it didn't change, so I don't know if that means the guage broke today or if this indicates something going on with the filter.

    I am getting desperate for some answers!
    Last edited by Pamsel; 06-13-2006 at 07:22 PM.
    Pam, Illinois

    "17'x33' oval 14.5K gal IG vinyl pool; liquid chlorine; Hayward Pro Series, M-S-244T sand filter; A.O. Smith Centurian, Switchless, 1.40 HP pump; Right now 24/7hrs; Pool Solutions PS234
    Serial #6511, Drops / Powder; Community well; summer: none; winter: mesh; ; PF:8.3"

  7. #17
    KurtV is offline Registered+ Widget Weaver KurtV 0
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    Default Re: A picture is worth a thousand words . . .

    Pam, Your alkalinity is very high. That's what is making it difficult to get your pH down. Your high pH is probably limiting the effectiveness of your chlorine and that may well be contributing to your difficulty with killing the algae.

    I'd get the pH down (no matter how much acid that takes), keep your chlorine at shock levels, and have patience. You can lower the alkalinity once the algae problem is resolved.

    Best of luck.

  8. #18
    haze_1956 is offline ** No working email address ** Thread Analyst haze_1956 0
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    Default Re: A picture is worth a thousand words . . .

    I see from the threads you are at this for 2 weeks, so I can well imagine your frustration level must be way up there.

    Problems are, Pool is still green, PH will not lower and Filter pressure too high.

    Pool green, from Algae or Copper ?
    Googling found this info – The best way to deal with copper is with a chelating agent, not a sequestering agent. The copper products used, as swimming pool algaecides, are typically in a chelated (stabilized) form.
    This leads me to think that the Copper Algaecide should not turn the pool green, but if you think it has, you would want to add a “chelating agent” . From what I read, chelation stablizes the copper and keeps it in solution, stopping the pool being green. But only by replacing the water will the copper actually be removed from the pool

    Ph will not lower-
    The whole aeration process seems simple. Use Acid to maintain lower PH to 6.8-7.0 and then use aeration to lower Alkalinity.
    But I seem to recall reading in the forum that using aeration above 7.0–7.2 will increase PH. I may be mistaken on that, I am sure someone will chime in should that be incorrect. But I am wondering if your aerating is actually keeping the PH high. Perhaps you need to stop aerating for now, and keep adding acid, until PH drops to 7.0

    Filter Pressure high–
    I think that is for the Pool guys who really know the equipment. But I believe it is low pressure means problem before the pump, and high pressure means problem after pump.

    I’m also wondering what you have coming out of the filter when you backwash?

    Best of luck, we are all rooting for you !!
    .

  9. #19
    Pamsel is offline Registered+ Thread Analyst Pamsel 0
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    Default Re: A picture is worth a thousand words . . .

    I just read on a lowering alkalinity thread that one should get the PH down and then aerate to lower TA - that aeration will raise PH. Is this correct? I've been aearating 24/7 for most of two weeks, trying to lower my PH & TA. Have I been doing this wrong and causing my PH to stay high? I really am confused as to what to be working on and in what order. Some say to get the algae taken care of first and then work on the PH. Others say get that PH and TA down now! I really am confused about all of this. I have mentioned a couple of times that I'm aerating, but until now, no one mentioned that it could be adding to my high PH problem. I guess I have so many issues going on, no one can catch them all!

    Just saw your message, Haze. I think I need to go stop the aerating for now. When I backwash, I do not get much coming out. The water is greenish at first, but clears up fairly quickly...not much else. A couple of weeks ago, the water was brown for a good minute before clearing up when I backwashed.
    Last edited by Pamsel; 06-13-2006 at 10:44 PM.
    Pam, Illinois

    "17'x33' oval 14.5K gal IG vinyl pool; liquid chlorine; Hayward Pro Series, M-S-244T sand filter; A.O. Smith Centurian, Switchless, 1.40 HP pump; Right now 24/7hrs; Pool Solutions PS234
    Serial #6511, Drops / Powder; Community well; summer: none; winter: mesh; ; PF:8.3"

  10. #20
    haze_1956 is offline ** No working email address ** Thread Analyst haze_1956 0
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    Default Re: A picture is worth a thousand words . . .

    Same thought at same time - It's like telepathy !! LOL

    I saw the picture had a lot of dirt on steps so something is dying.

    Pool really should be a lot clearer after 2 weeks of high CL

    I agree with stopping aeration and see if the acid will then lower PH

    High pressure and no real dirt on backwash could mean filter is clogged. Maybe time to open it and check how junked up the sand is.
    Last edited by haze_1956; 06-13-2006 at 10:51 PM.

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