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Thread: Chemicals Required to Open Pool

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Chelsea AL
    Posts
    42

    Default Re: Chemicals Required to Open Pool

    I probably said that wrong, the tablets are actually in the pump, the are in a tube beside the pump. On that there's an adjustment which I usually keep around 2-3 which is about 50%. I've actually lowered it before to try to make the water cloudy and it seems like nothing I do will make the water in this pool cloudy. My pool builder said as long as the water is crystal clear don't worry about anything because the ozonator is doing its job. I have a hard time believing that and that it could really be this simple to maintain a pool so I am constantly worrying about when I'll wake up to a green pond in my back yard. :-)

    I turned the adjustment by the tablets up to 5 (the max) yesterday just to see if the FC will come up or not. I'll take a sample today and post my results. But as I am interpreting your last reply maybe I should just stop stressing and enjoy the pool?

    If I needed to raise the CYA at some point what is best used to do that?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Chelsea AL
    Posts
    42

    Default Re: Chemicals Required to Open Pool

    This was taken within an hour of the pump shutting off after running over night. FC 1.8 and CC .6 water couldn't be more clear

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Tucson, AZ
    Posts
    222

    Default Re: Chemicals Required to Open Pool

    Since you're a puck user, I have a hard time believing your CYA is as low as you say it is. Sometimes the CYA test can be tricky. One thing you could do as a sanity check is to perform a diluted CYA test - take a sample of pool water and dilute with distilled water in a 1:1 ratio (50% dilution). Then perform the CYA test and multiply the results by 2.

    So you turned up you chlorinator and now your CCs are up to 0.6ppm? That's a bit troubling to me. You could be on the verge of an algae bloom. I find it very disturbing when pool builders say "if the water is clear then it's fine." That's a hugely misleading and false statement. Clarity is not an indication of sanitary water.

    As for CYA, I prefer to use solid stabilizer (100% CYA) sometimes called conditioner, and then I put it in a nylon skimmer sock and let it sit in front of a pool return until it dissolves. It can take up to a week for the added CYA to register on the CYA test so it's best to raise CYA in small increments. Since you use picks for chlorination, your CYA should naturally rise in its own unless you do lots of major water exchanges.

    Retest the CYA using the dilution method and post results.
    16k gal IG gunite PebbleTec (Caribbean Blue), 18' x 36' free form with raised spa/spillway and separate rock waterfall. All Pentair Equipment pad - 3HP IntelliFlo VS / 1.5HP WhisperFlo, MasterTemp 400k BTU/hr heater, QuadDE-100 filter, IC40 SWCG, IntelliTouch/EasyTouch Controls

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