I think I want to go salt.

[estermer]

I have a 25K gallon in ground pool with a black pebble tech finish.

Living in Southern California, it is very common for my pool to reach 90 degrees during the summer. Between the temp and bather load, during this time I use a significant amount of chlorine. I have an inline chlorinator which is set to full and I regularly dump about 1 pound of granules every few days to keep it chlorinated.

I am interested in converting to salt. Do you think it would work in my situation? I generally run my filter for 5-6 hours per day in the summer.

Thank you

[SJohnson]

If you go by the opinions on this board, there are two swc's at the top of the list, the AquaRite by Hayward/Goldline or the Autopilot Salt System. They are both very good products and effective chlorine producers. Since you have a high chlorine demand, you may want to go with an over-rated Autopilot SaltWater Chlorinator. There is only one version of the aquarite, as far as I know and it is rated to supply chlorine up to 40,000 gallons, whereas the autopilot has three versions, the Pool Pilot Digital Super Cell 36, 48, and 60 with the 60 being rated for pools up to 50,000 gallons. If you think your chlorine demand is that high, you may benefit from the 60. The AutoPilot also has more bells and whistles, such as an automatic water temperature adjustment, that adjusts the output based on water temps, with more chlorine produced in summer, less in winter, etc. I went with the aquarite because I am getting the aqualogic control system by hayward/goldline, so it just seemed easier for me. If I were converting to salt and just needed the swc, I would have gone with the autopilot. Both are good, I think, and I researched this extensively . . . Can't go terribly wrong either way . . . the trick seems to be generating enough chlorine based on your pump runtimes and in six hours, you may want to get something that has the output you need. It should work great for you, just remember to shock with bleach to save your cell life . . .

Links:
AquaRite: http://www.goldlinecontrols.com
AutoPilot: http://www.autopilot.com

Hope that helps you,

-SJohnson

[CarlD]

I'm afraid SJohnson has missed the obvious reason for your high chlorine demand. It's SO obvious that it's smacking me in the face.

You are using an in-line chlorinator with Tri-Chlor pucks. Tri-chlor adds CYA (Stabilizer) to your pool. The higher stabilizer goes, the more chlorine you need to keep it sanitary. I'd bet the rent you are well north of 100ppm in CYA.

What you need is to get a posting of your test numbers:
FC
CC
pH
CYA
TA
and CA

Get yourself a test kit that tests these--Ben, and Taylor have kits that measure FC up to 50 or 100ppm--you need it.

If I'm right (and I probably am), you need to STOP USING PUCKS! Use Liquid Chlorine (Sodium Hypochlorite solution)--the supermarket sells it in bottles marked "Laundry Bleach". You probably need to keep your daily chlorine level between 8 and 15ppm.

Or, you can dump a good portion of your water and refill. If your CYA is 120, and you dump half your water, it will now be 60ppm. 60ppm is normally a tad high, but in constant 90+ heat it will slow the environment (UV and heat) from consuming your chlorine. You want your chlorine consumed getting rid of contaminants--suntan oil and algae.

There's nothing wrong with SWGs--they work great--but they are expensive and so are repairs--that buys an awful lot of bleach. I figure a properly maintained pool will use 45-90 gallons a season--at about $1/gallon. A $900 system is 10-20 years of bleach! Still, if you need the convenience, like to successfully run at lower chlorine levels, and like the feel saltwater gives, an SWG is for you!

But I suggest you first get to the REAL root of your heavy chlorine demands--almost definitely a pool super-saturated with Cyanuric Acid--CYA/Stabilizer. THEN, once that's not an issue, decide on an SWG, rather than throwing money at the pool and hoping it fixes it. It won't, until you get CYA levels down.

I test my water every day--takes 2 minutes with practice. If chlorine is low, I pour a jug of bleach into the skimmer for a total of 3 minutes a day. That's why I can't justify an SWG. For me, it saves me next to nothing.

[waterbear]

Aslo, the aqualogic can be used with bigger pools by wiring an aquarite into the control panel but if I am not mistaken one cell can handle a pool up to 40,000 gal.

[SJohnson]

CarlD's probably right, in fact I'm positive you'll find your cya levels are off, either too low or way too high. I just assume everyone knows this stuff . . .

SJohnson

[mwsmith2]

I'm afraid SJohnson has missed the obvious reason for your high chlorine demand. It's SO obvious that it's smacking me in the face.

Mmmm, I'm not so sure. He doesn't report an algae problem, so I'm thinking the trouble is keeping Cl up high enough to keep the pool sanitary, not keeping algae down.

A 90 degree pool + lots of sun + lots of people = lots of cl demand. I think a SWC will be able to do it, but i'm thinking your pump run time may need to be adjusted to 8 hrs, to give enough time to turn the pool over properly and also give time to make Cl.

Michael

[SJohnson]

How about you test your cya and post it, then everyone can give you some good, accurate advice . . .

SJohnson

[hzz]

Just to add to what Michael said...I also think a SWG will work for you....just be sure you oversize it for your situation.

If you go for the Autopilot get the 60 cell....I got that one for my pool even though it is a bit of overkill.

[CarlD]

OK, let me be clear:

It's not that the thread-starter cannot use an SWG--I would never say that or imply that. But if he is having a problem with his water, throwing money at it by adding expensive stuff probably won't solve it. You have to solve the problem first. There's no way around that.

[waterbear]

Mmmm, I'm not so sure. He doesn't report an algae problem, so I'm thinking the trouble is keeping Cl up high enough to keep the pool sanitary, not keeping algae down.

A 90 degree pool + lots of sun + lots of people = lots of cl demand. I think a SWC will be able to do it, but i'm thinking your pump run time may need to be adjusted to 8 hrs, to give enough time to turn the pool over properly and also give time to make Cl.

Michael

I tend to agree. A SWG would make maintaining the Cl levels as close to automatic as you can get. Just got to tweak the pump run time and Clorine generation output of the cell. Not rocket science at all! Just takes testing of your levels until they are correct and holding. The plus side is that the need to shock will be greatly reduced or elimiated once it is all adjusted properly.