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Thread: Closing chemistry recommendation

  1. #21
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    Default Re: Closing chemistry recommendation

    I am in central Va, closed several weeks ago using high chlorine, followed by a heavy dose of poly and then letting pump run for approx. 48 hours and vacuuming. Now my water is black. Did I simply close too early? First year pool owner btw. I have trees on 3 sides so I know that doesn't help. Watermom, opening in April and never covering your pool how do you deal with pollen?
    18x34 22k gallon IG, Vinyl liner, Hayward sand filter, Hayward Chlorinator, Pentair Challenger 1hp pump, LA Spa.

  2. #22
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    Default Re: Closing chemistry recommendation

    Quote Originally Posted by zmanh View Post
    Watermom, opening in April and never covering your pool how do you deal with pollen?
    I just use my net and skimmer to clear the pollen from the pool. Not a big deal, really. The skimmer gets most of it although I don't run the pump when I am not home to keep an eye on the skimmer basket.

    As far as your pool ----- polyquat will drop the chlorine level pretty quick. So, if you didn't add more chlorine after the polyquat addition, you probably didn't have much chlorine in there. That combined with the water temperature not being very cold yet are most likely why you are now having an algae problem.

  3. #23
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    Default Re: Closing chemistry recommendation

    Quote Originally Posted by zmanh View Post
    I am in central Va, closed several weeks ago using high chlorine, followed by a heavy dose of poly and then letting pump run for approx. 48 hours and vacuuming. Now my water is black. Did I simply close too early? First year pool owner btw. I have trees on 3 sides so I know that doesn't help. Watermom, opening in April and never covering your pool how do you deal with pollen?
    Did you cover the pool? If so, with a solid or mesh cover?

    If going coverless, or even a mesh cover, you need to wait until water temp stays below 60.
    22'x40' Grecian Lazy L 20K gal IG vinyl pool; Aqua Rite SWCG T15 cell; Hayward Pro Grid 6020 DE filter; Hayward Superpump 1hp pump; 12 hrs; Taylor K-2006; city; PF:6

  4. #24
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    Default Re: Closing chemistry recommendation

    Quote Originally Posted by JimK View Post
    you need to wait until water temp stays below 60.
    And, even below 60 degrees is no guarantee that algae won't grow. Somewhere here on the forum is a picture posted by Poconos (a former moderator) where he has ice on his pool with algae growing below it. I'll see if I can find it but it was a long time ago so probably won't be able to.

  5. #25
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    Default Re: Closing chemistry recommendation

    Quote Originally Posted by Watermom View Post
    And, even below 60 degrees is no guarantee that algae won't grow. Somewhere here on the forum is a picture posted by Poconos (a former moderator) where he has ice on his pool with algae growing below it. I'll see if I can find it but it was a long time ago so probably won't be able to.
    Yikes!
    22'x40' Grecian Lazy L 20K gal IG vinyl pool; Aqua Rite SWCG T15 cell; Hayward Pro Grid 6020 DE filter; Hayward Superpump 1hp pump; 12 hrs; Taylor K-2006; city; PF:6

  6. #26
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    Default Re: Closing chemistry recommendation

    Thanks for the reply. I was getting plenty of questions from my wife on why I hadn't closed yet. (both neighbors had) And I honestly couldn't answer it, so I ended up closing. Know better next year. I am using a mesh cover, since I don't have a cover pump. Plus I have plenty of leaves to deal with so didn't want those getting on cover, getting wet and weighing it down. I have plenty of tree trimming to do this winter to hopefully remedy that. On behalf of those of us that may not comment as much, thank you all at the pool forum. I made a few mistakes my first year. (had no idea how much of an effect 12 kids taking swimming lessons would have on chlorine drop) I paid for that by spending the next 2 weeks fighting algae. The threads, stickies, articles, etc. were very helpful.
    18x34 22k gallon IG, Vinyl liner, Hayward sand filter, Hayward Chlorinator, Pentair Challenger 1hp pump, LA Spa.

  7. #27
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    Default Re: Closing chemistry recommendation

    Quote Originally Posted by zmanh View Post
    Thanks for the reply. I was getting plenty of questions from my wife on why I hadn't closed yet. (both neighbors had) And I honestly couldn't answer it, so I ended up closing. Know better next year. I am using a mesh cover, since I don't have a cover pump. Plus I have plenty of leaves to deal with so didn't want those getting on cover, getting wet and weighing it down. I have plenty of tree trimming to do this winter to hopefully remedy that. On behalf of those of us that may not comment as much, thank you all at the pool forum. I made a few mistakes my first year. (had no idea how much of an effect 12 kids taking swimming lessons would have on chlorine drop) I paid for that by spending the next 2 weeks fighting algae. The threads, stickies, articles, etc. were very helpful.
    I didn't find this site until after several seasons of trying to figure out why the pool store's recommendations weren't working. Now, by following the recommendations here, maintenance is much easier and cheaper.

    Since you're using a mesh cover, I suggest you plan to open in early March. Here on the VA coast I found if I opened later than that (when I was using a mesh cover) I had a good chance of opening to a green pool. Since using a solid cover, I've not had a green pool in the spring even opening as late as early June. You're right though, the solid cover does get messy.

    You said you don't have a cover pump. Since you have a mesh cover, you will still need a pump to drain excess water that will accumulate in your pool during the winter. And since all that rain will dilute your pool water, you should probably plan to add another dose of polyquat, perhaps in January or early February.
    22'x40' Grecian Lazy L 20K gal IG vinyl pool; Aqua Rite SWCG T15 cell; Hayward Pro Grid 6020 DE filter; Hayward Superpump 1hp pump; 12 hrs; Taylor K-2006; city; PF:6

  8. #28
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    Default Re: Closing chemistry recommendation

    I also have trees around my pool. In the fall, I just stay after removing the leaves that fall in the pool by using a leaf rake and also my Polaris 65 which does a great job at picking up big stuff such as leaves. Then, once the trees have dropped all the leaves, the water stays clear.

    I never liked covering my pool. First of all, I hate looking at a covered pool. I would much rather look at my water. Secondly, on a 27' pool, the cover is HUGE and a real pain to deal with. It was hard to clean off in the spring, difficult to fold up and store and when I would remove it in the spring, the mix of disintegrating leaves and nasty water would inevitably end up in the pool murking up the water that had remained clear over the winter.

    So, several years ago, I just decided to not fool with the cover. Now, over the winter, I don't have to do anything with the pool at all. No hassling with using a sump pump to pump nasty water off the cover. I have not regretted my decision to not cover the pool at all.

  9. #29
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    Default Re: Closing chemistry recommendation


    I've read this entire thread plus other helpful closing information on the site. THANK YOU!

    My question: When you refer to raising the FC to shock level to close, at what point on the "Ben's Best Guess Guide to Swimming Pool Chlorine" are you shocking? There are two 'Shock' columns with very different Shock levels. Should we use the higher shock numbers for winter closing?
    Above ground Intex round 24' x 52", 13,600 gallons, Hayward VL Series sand filter and pump, Missouri resident

  10. #30
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    Default Re: Closing chemistry recommendation

    No. Use the lower value, I believe the left of the 2 columns. I do not recommend you closing your pool until any algae bloom is clear. Then raise to the lower shock level.
    If your CYA level is below 10, use 10 as your shock level
    Below 30, use 12.
    Below 60, use 15,
    Below 100, use 20,
    100 or above, use 25.
    Carl

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