Hi and welcome!
First, you need to get your pH down into the 7's. You can use either Muriatic Acid (available at hardware stores--but NOT the "green" type--it won't work), or Dry Acid, usually available at pool stores. The generic is the same as branded names, just cheaper.
Second, you need to get your chlorine level up. If your pool is clear, you need to get your free chlorine level up to between 3 and 6 ppm. If it's not, you need to get it to 15ppm.
To do so, add bleach. 1 gallon of 8.25% regular, unscented, ultra bleach will raise your FC by 5.5ppm. But since it usually comes in 121 ounce jugs, one jug will raise it by 5.2ppm.
If you can only get 5.25% bleach, 1 gallon will add 3.5ppm.
If you can get gallons of 12.5% liquid chlorine (which is chemically nothing more than super-strong bleach), one gallon will add 8.3ppm of chlorine.
Third, you need to get yourself a proper test kit. We recommend the Taylor Technologies K-2006 or K-2006C, which you can get online:
http://poolsolutions.com/testkit-order-links.html
There are a couple of equivalent kits available, but they are merely re-badging of the K-2006 (like Leslies FAS-DPD service test kit--which costs more).
Fourth: Your (total) alkalinity, calcium hardness and CYA (stabilizer) levels are FINE. dissolved solids is irrelevant, but pool stores like to make you think they are important. Acid Demand is obvious: Your pH is 8, you need to add acid (that's why most of us ignore acid demand and base demand tests--pH tells you what you need to know).
Fifth: You need to learn (and unlearn) just how simple and non-mysterious and non-magical pool care and maintenance is. Head for our sister site, PoolSolutions.com and learn about our BBB methods, and how you can buy your chemicals at the supermarket.
I like to say that there are 2 1/2 things that REALLY matter in pool care:
1) Sanitation--that's chlorine
2) pH
2 1/2) Stabilizer--because its level determines the ideal chlorine level in 1).
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