Newbie needs advice on new sanitation system

[ctmallery]

I have the Nature2 system and hate it. They claim I can keep my pool at .5ppm but even if assuming that were true it's such a low amount that it's easy to end up with no chlorine in the pool (not to mention that as CYA levels rise, keeping your pool at .5ppm doesn't seem like a great idea).

I'm thinking about ditching the Nature2 system and going with a tab feeder or just dumping bleach in the pool as needed. I'm concerned that a tab feeder (which the Nature2 had built in) will just end up raising my CYA levels. Bleach seems like the best solution, but I'm concerned that if I'm not constantly measuring my chlorine levels I could easily end up with chlorine 0 -- at least the tabs gives me some constant protection.

Last question. If a pool is properly balanced, how many tabs should a 10,000 gallon pool burn through in a month (approximately). I'm having trouble keeping chlorine levels up in my pool; the pool guy says its phosphates. Any truth to that?


Thoughts on tab feeder recommendations? Treating phosphates?

Thanks

[CarlD]

Hi!
Your pool guy is full of it. He just wants to sell you expensive phosphate remover, regularly.

Ditching the N2 is a good idea.

You need to spend $50-$80 on a good test kit. We recommend the Taylor Technologies K-2006 or K-2006C. You can get the best price by clicking on the link in either WaterMom's or PoolDoc's signature.
Gotta run. More later.

[Watermom]

You can get the test kit that Carl mentioned through this link:> http://pool9.net/tk/

[CarlD]

With the proper test kit, you can use Tri-Chlor tabs. I recommend testing FC and pH everyday and adjusting if needed. Even if you have a floater full of tabs, if your FC is low you can pour in bleach (just not on the floater!) If you have an OTO/Phenol kit you can use that instead daily.

Once a week, in adding to checking FC and pH, check CC, T/A, and CYA (stabilizer).

If your pool is masonry, check CH as well. If it is vinyl, check CH at the beginning of the season and if it's low, check again mid-season, but don't waste time before.
Don't bother with acid and base demand.

Tri-Chor is VERY acidic and add 6ppm of CYA for every 10 of FC. But if you follow my recommendation, you'll be able to switch to bleach as soon as the CYA gets as high as you like. And you'll know if the pH is low immediately and can add Borax or Washing Soda to bring it up.