If you have a cartridge filter or a non backwashing DE filter the CYA levels will build very quickly and you will have to drain and refill more often then with a sand filter or a backwashing DE filter. Just a thought to keep in mind.
If you have a cartridge filter or a non backwashing DE filter the CYA levels will build very quickly and you will have to drain and refill more often then with a sand filter or a backwashing DE filter. Just a thought to keep in mind.
Retired pool store and commercial pool maintenance guy.
Thanks All,
It's finally filled and I'll give it a while to stabilize. It has a sand filter with backwash.
Looks like the alkalinity is going to stay high at around 230ppm at 7.4 pH. What's the downside to the alkalinity being that high? I'm not going to change it, just want to know what to look for.
Thanks,
Tom
Hey,
If you add water weekly either by hose or rain i dont think you will have any problems as long as you watch the numbers. that is the system i use and my cya is always under 30, some weeks i float 1 3" tablet some weeks i float 3 3" it depends on how often i am around to put bleach in but i have never had a problem with cya getting 2 high. hope that helps
If your Alk is that high and you have a lot of Calcium Hardness, you may have trouble with cloudy water. If you drop your PH a little and get some aeration going, you can drop the alkalinity, but you'll probably have to keep after it if your fill water is that high. It doesn't take a lot of CYA to reduce your chlorine demand substantially, you might want to run the feeder pretty strong and run the pump into the evening a bit so you have some chlorine in the pool overnight to keep things well sanitized. With very low CYA, I'd shoot for a reading of 2ppm over night (measured in the AM) with a residual of about 1 ppm remaining as the sun comes off the pool in the afternoon. I'd test 2 x per day (AM and PM) unitl the CYA starts to build and you are able to turn the feeder down some.
The good thing is your pucks will lower your ph and when it gets to 7.2 , you can aerate your water by aiming your return jets up, the alk will lower as it raises your ph. You can continue to do this till you get to the alkalinity of 80 - 120.
Northeast PA
16'x32' kidney 16K gal IG fiberglass pool; Bleach; Hayward 200lb sand filter; Hayward pump; 24hrs; Pf200; well; summer: none; winter: mesh; ; PF:7.5
Thanks All, again,
I went ahead and bought some CYA and have a small quantity in a sock in the skimmer. Is there a downside to targeting about 15-20 ppm and then letting the pucks bring it up slowly from there? I did have low chlorine (0.5ppm) after this first day after the refill, but it will take a few days to set the chlorinator.
BTW, if I use a cost of $100 per 40 pounds of tablets, that's about 15 cents an ounce, and for a 15,000 gallon pool I've read I'll be using 3 ounces a day to keep 2ppm chlorine, so 45 cents a day. Bleach at Walmart was $2.30 for 1.5 gallons, and a half gallon makes 2ppm chlorine in the same pool, so 76 cents a day. I must be calculating something wrong?![]()
TW
The problem is that as your stabilzier levels increase you need to increase your FC levels to keep enough 'active' chlorine in the pool. You then use more pucks which then increase your stabilzier levels even more.
Check out this thread for info on chlorine levels and stabilzier
http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthread.php?t=365
Retired pool store and commercial pool maintenance guy.
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